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RE:editorial (Read 1594 times)
james a pickup
Ex Member
RE:editorial
Sep 11
th
, 2012 at 1:21pm
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I read the lastest issue and about the accident at the quigley match with a cast ballard in 40-65.I would like to point out the editor has it a little wrong.iT was not the Ballard action that failed, it was the RELINE job that blew and casused the action to fracture.I have seen several reline jobs that were not good for a .22rimfire, let alone a 40-65.One was a 25-20SS, the other was a .32wcf, both bulged resulting in ruined barrels.Also myfather had a #4 Ballard relined in 38-55 with less than perfect results.It was sent to a
company in Texas-the first time it we got it it was seen that a person had pounded on the muzzle with a large hammer to get it in, it was returned, the next time it looked OK.However,it would not chamber a shell.IT HAD NOT BEEN CHAMBERED.So i took it to a relible gunsmith and he chambered it.And i shot it for years.I know of only two gunsmiths i would trust with a reline job, i will not say who they are.The moral of this story is BEWARE of BAD GUNSMITHING. it can bite you in the ass.
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Fred Boulton
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th
, 2007
Re: RE:editorial
Reply #1 -
Sep 11
th
, 2012 at 2:26pm
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The metal around the outside of the reline has to fail first. Barrel steels are not hard and will expand elastically for some way before failure.
Fred
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BP
Frequent Elocutionist
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Posts: 8039
Location: Westside
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th
, 2006
Re: RE:editorial
Reply #2 -
Sep 11
th
, 2012 at 8:44pm
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Food for thought...
So lets say that, for whatever reason,there was a pretty good "air" gap between the outside wall of the liner and the inside wall of the drilled out barrel. Maybe it was filled with loctite or epoxy, or maybe there were some air pockets in places after the adhesive was used.
Anyone know what the yield strength of those two adhesive materials happen to be in a radial or shear direction? Do they act like a Bingham plastic, compressing first and then deforming, allowing the liner to expand into any air gap before the liner then contacts the inner wall of the drilled out barrel?
Forgot to add: We know that some compounds have a shelf life, but anyone know if they have a "Service" life as well, meaning they need to be renewed or replaced after a certain amount of time has elapsed. Anyone ever noted some old bedding compounds going bad?
«
Last Edit: Sep 12
th
, 2012 at 3:06pm by BP
»
There are three kinds of men: The ones that learn by reading, the few who learn by observation, and the rest who have to pee on the electric fence and find out for themselves.
Proud Noodlehead
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SSShooter
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Location: Southern NJ
Joined: Aug 1
st
, 2010
Re: RE:editorial
Reply #3 -
Sep 13
th
, 2012 at 7:04pm
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The editorial is also in error in its description of the Win-Miroku trigger. Having owned three (3) Win-Miroku High Walls and knowing folks with several others, none of them is "hard and creepy" and is easily adjusted with one screw to 3-4# pull. And, with 5 minutes work with a screwdriver one can pull the trigger/sear and send off to Lee Shaver, who will, for the grand price of $35, make it a great ~2# trigger. While overly complicated and likely designed by an attorney, it is not that bad a trigger from a performance standpoint. The Browning is different, and I have no experience with it, so he may be half-right. But our 200m off-hand BPCR match is generally won by a 72yr-old member shooting a Browning High Wall in 45-70 with buckhorn and blade open sights. It is rare that Dan hits less than 30, so am thinking his trigger might be pretty good, as well.
Glenn - 2x CPA 44 1/2 w/22LR (Shilen ratchet-rifled & Bartlein 5R rifled), 38-40RH & 38-55WCF (Bartlein 5R rifled) & 40-65WCF (GrnMtn 'X') barrels
GTalk
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