I just received my first (of 3) boxes of Bertram 9.5x47R brass from Graf's

I know that in the past Bertram brass had a reputation for splitting, at least in the smaller cases.    This is a short-bodied long necked nominal 35 cal case based on a 11mm mauser-type case.  The neck and shoulder combined are nearly the same length as the body.  I am concerned with case failure and am wondering if Bertram has solved their problem or if I need to anneal the cases myself. These case do not show any discoloration in the neck or shoulder that I associate with annealing.

Do Bertram cases split in the neck, the shoulder or the body?   
I know there are different methods of annealing used by members.  I have been shooting and reloading for close to 50 years and never had to anneal a case---yet.   I am trying to understand how much of the case needs to be annealed.

With the short body that makes sense, but how do I get an even heat?  Some methods call for holding and twirling the case with your fingers to get even heat.  Or is it even really neccessary since brass is a pretty efficient conductor?

With a propane torch and in low light, hold the rim with the thumb & index finger.  Spin (rotate) the case with the flame at the seating depth of the bullet until the brass turns a dark straw or bluish green color.  The color indicates the brass has been heated to 625 - 650 degrees.  Air cool the brass 

Unlike steel, which will be made harder when it is cooled rapidly, brass is virtually unaffected when it is rapidly cooled. Annealing brass and suddenly quenching it in water will have no measurable effect on the brass

It is true that brass does not harden when quenched, so you can either air cool or quench---whichever suits you. I made a little turntable which sits in an old dish, full of water up to about a quarter of an inch above the turntable. I stand the dases on the turntable, heat with a propane torch while rotating to even out the heating and when hot (green flame), I tip the cases into the water with a screwdriver.
Brass work hardens and needs to be annealed after each deep-drawing process. Bertram do not appear to anneal after the final draw, leaving the case mouth hard and brittle. I have some .300 Sherwood cases which have been reloaded about 25 times after the first anneal and have yet to have one split.
Fred

Re frequency: I'm shooting black powder in 45-70 and 40-65 and I anneal after each firing to make sure the cases fully expand and provide a good seal to the chamber with the relatively low pressures involved with black powder. Consistent neck tension is also important and always firing an annealed case assures that. So the answer to how often will depend on the purpose you have in mind. Extending case life - perhaps every 5 to 10 loadings depending on cartridge intensity and resizing method (neck v full length); removing  variables that can affect accuracy when using BP -- every firing. 
I use a Lee Power Trimmer shell holder chucked in a cordless drill to hold the case spinning in a propane torch flame for about 5 sec. which on these cases produces the color change John Boy cites. Cases are then air cooled in a case drying rack.

J Lewis. When you said lube the inside of the neck. What do you recommend for lube?

ron

does it smoke much, or is it such a thin film that it doesn't matter?  My casting area is in the basement, ventilated, but also w/smoke detectors.

I would take one case and shoot it a few times before I decided I had a problem.
I have a box of 25-21 Bertram with one case out of it that I have shot 3-4 hundred times with no problems.