Hey, I'm new at this but I might be interested. What is the cost, and what diameter? Haven't slugged my 8.15 Martini / Kessler actioned rifle yet? Anybody have a guess as to what it would be, or are they all over the map.

Quote:

DW:  This is the normal Cast Boolits Group Buy prices for NOE molds -
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The bullet diameter is clearly stated in the schematic I posted
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If anyone wants in on the group buy (GB), post on Cast Boolits thread that you want one or more of the molds ...
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As stated in the CB thread, this is an original old time designed German stop ring bullet for a 8.15x46R Schuetzen rifle with 2 GG's before the stop ring and a cupped base
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Al turns out quality molds, I have two of his and have taked to him about doing one (25 cal) of my design. He is also very easy to deal with, if ANYTHING is wrong, he'll take it back and replace or give a full refund. After the deal is made, it takes about 9 months to a year to run the mold. You don't have to send ANY money untill they are run. Some send the money after they are run. He very safe to work with.
 
That said, this design was copied from a original but, I see at least two things wrong with it.
 
First the hollow or rebated base. I don't think that it's needed and it could be a cause of trouble.
 
Second, the nose is just to large. Most bore diameters are .302 - .306 (mines .303 bore, .316 groove) I can't see how a groove or near groove size nose  will help accuracy. 
 
You need to make sure that he knows that it will be cast from 20/1 and not a harder alloy. Most of his molds are aluminum but, he does do brass but, not on every order.
 
I like the way that the stop ring is done but, would like to see the case go to the center of it. The base band is ok but, again I don't like the hollow.
 
Frank

I just put in my order on the other forum, so now only 5 needed. I shoot only smokless so I doubt much obrutation will take place with the shallow base cup, but either with or with out is ok by me.
Mike

John,
Rational is what works in cast bullets in general. You do not need a HB bullet if the base fits the groove properly. And as I see it, anytime that anything moves on a bullet, there is a opportunity for something to go wrong. 

Joe,
OH accuracy is still accuracy. I ONLY BS my German rifle. I shoot bad enough OH that I need ALL the help that I can get. I would rather shoot 20 than a 19, any day.

In the experimenting that I did with my rifle, I found that once I seal the barrel with just the base band .001 over groove diameter that the groups tighten up by about 1/2.

My basic concept on the stop ring bullets is that I can't see swaging all that extra lead down into the barrel and hoping that it all comes out good. It sure won't be the same shape when it exits the barrel as before it goes into to it.

These are just my ideas guys, I'm not telling you to not buy the mold (the mold maker is a great guy) or not to use it but, NEI makes a SR mold that I think would be more accurate with a higher BC if it fits your groove diameter.

Frank

A few things to consider here.

1. Those bullets were left over in someone shooting gear, possibly meaning that the person did not want/like to shoot them and preferred shooting another bullet.

2. That bullet design was most likely from before 1920. Very few of us shoot American bullet designs from that era in competition today. Biggi may have better insight regarding the design, also.

3. The diameter seems to be larger than most barrel sizes in common use today. Most seem to be in the .314 - .318 range. I know Joe has a .320 or so groove gun but, I think more fall into the smaller range. We do not know what groove diameter that bullet was shot in!

Hopefully, Biggi will give us a opinion here.

I'm not opposed to shooting SR bullets, the only organization that shoots these rifles, recommend them so, at some point it may become a rule but, from my experiance with fixed ammo this design won't work well in my .316 groove rifle. It may work very well in a .320- .321 groove though.

Frank