Believe 1899 is the year after which are no longer consider antiques. Per Campbell's book, 85086 is the last High Wall made in 1899.

The break point is Dec. 31, 1898 for all guns.
All Ballards are antique, as they stopped production around 1891. Marlins in general are serial numbered together , and not as individual models. They also are recorded by ship date, not mfg. date, so often an old pre 1898 gun will show in the records as shipping later. Marlins before 175,500 are considered antique.

The highwall that I am building has a four digit serial number, and according to Campbells book, was made in 1886.  Practically everything except the action has been replaced.  New block from Wyoming Armory, lower pistol grip tang with wide spaced double set triggers from Ballard Arms Co., new DST sear from Steve Baldwin, and the list goes on!  I found an extremely nice stick of english I will be using for the stocks.  Dave Crossno will be using my pattern stock to duplicate the wood for me.  Crossno also annealed the action before Baldwin trued the face of the action. McGowen Precision has donated a 32 in. heavy round tapered barrel.  They are wanting a little exposure in the BPCR market, so if the barrel shoots, they'll get the exposure.  I just got through threading the barrel, and the new PT&G match 45-70 reamer just came in, so maybe this weekend I'll get it chambered & head spaced.
I swear, building a new rifle is almost as fun as shooting them!  Tim   

Yep, Basically all new except the action.  The serial number on a highwall is on the lower tang, and since mine has been replaced, I will transfer the original serial number to the new lower tang.  Technically it is exempt from the regulations since it was mfg. before 1898, not that it matters to me.  When this rifle is finished it will be a keeper.  However if it came to it, I would treat it as a rifle that had to be transferred based on current regulations of the BATF.  My dealings with BATF auditors tells me that most of them do not know the laws & regulations anyway so why take a chance.  Tim

Hi Bob, 
    I also used the Helm lever, from Ballard Arms Co.  The two critical things that need fitting are the DST and the Helm lever.  Where the lever bottoms out when closed affects the lock up position of the block.  These two parts (Helm lever & DST pistol grip lower tang) require careful fitting.  I have received excellent advice from Keith at Wyoming Armory in that respect.  
   Yes, I can see where the fingers take a beating with the Helm lever.  After fitting the butt stock and shaping the profile of the grip, I'll heat the finger lever and bend it open a touch for additional clearance.
Whenever I get something worth looking at, I'll post a few photo's.    Tim

Marlin,  You're probably right about that, but it really gets into a gray area with the regs., so that's why if I ever sold this rifle I would treat it as a modern rifle and the regs. would be adhered to as any currently mfg. rifle.  Thinking about the last audit performed by the BATF on my records, there were two extremely fat buffarilla's who performed the audit.  These two gals barely knew their butts from a hole in the ground.  Almost funny how ignorant they were of the current laws & regulations.  However it was a two day bad dream for me.  Can you imagine explaining the dates of mfg. and the highwall in question to them?  Ha.   Better careful than sorry.   Tim

Quote:


Believe me, I DO know how rediculous the BATF can get, and that's why I surrendered my FFL years ago, under duress and pressure from them. I'd broken no rules, and they said all my records were in order, but the underlying threats implied were enough for me to give in.
I could go on a long time about all the details, but wont do so here.