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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T (Read 40152 times)
frnkeore
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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #30 - Mar 26th, 2011 at 9:45pm
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J,
Have you tried 2% tin/WW? I've used it a lot in 45/70 and I noticed no differance in accuracy compaired to 20/1. No leading, also. Not sure of the hardess but, I think between 10-12 BHN

Frank
  

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40_Rod
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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #31 - Mar 27th, 2011 at 8:18am
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BP the nose slump is probably caused by the fact that three part alloys like Linotype and Monotype have very little shrinkage as they cool. 
  My problem with any alloy that contains antimony is that you get a dramatic reduction in ductility,more than just if you simply increase the tin ratio. In my opinion that is why in plain-based bullets lino tends to lead. Instead of bumping up into the grooves the edges tend to crumble. Take a lino bullet and crush it in a vise and look at what you get then do the same with a 25-1 bullet. 

40 Rod
  
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frnkeore
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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #32 - Mar 27th, 2011 at 10:54pm
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J,
How did they cast? Did the mold fill out well? Did you have to raise the casting teperature? That alloy has almost trace amounts of tin in it. 

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BP
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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #33 - Mar 28th, 2011 at 4:01am
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40_Rod wrote Quote:
My problem with any alloy that contains antimony is that you get a dramatic reduction in ductility,more than just if you simply increase the tin ratio. In my opinion that is why in plain-based bullets lino tends to lead. Instead of bumping up into the grooves the edges tend to crumble. Take a lino bullet and crush it in a vise and look at what you get then do the same with a 25-1 bullet.


John M,
I agree. The leading/ductility issue arises because the antimony precipitates out of the alloy upon cooling and forms discrete pockets of Sb encased randomly within the Pb/Sn structure (the same process occurs when volcanic magma cools, and zonation of minerals is then observed in the parent rock). The small pockets of antimony are not well bonded to the lead/tin, and "crumble" away upon firing. 

I've often wondered if many of the early nose designs (shorter nose length with less bore-riding surface) weren't intentionally styled with the Pb/Sn-only alloys in mind to mitigate againt nose slump and a change in BC. 

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BP
  

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creedmoormatch
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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #34 - Mar 28th, 2011 at 6:44pm
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   J. Louis,

    I can see from the information that you've shared thus far under this heading that you have put in some serious time towards solving the riddle of "Accuracy".

   I shoot the same Hoch bullet at 200 yards and was wondering if you would happen to know the Ballistic Coefficient of the Hoch 322-200.  I would ask Dave Farmer, but one can't always reach him on the phone when he's busy in the shop.
If anyone else would know, I believe it to be you.

   Thanks for your time,

    Creedmoormatch

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John Boy
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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #35 - Mar 29th, 2011 at 8:22pm
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Creedmoor, here is the best ballistics coefficient calculater there is... (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)   
Just plug in the values and then save the calculation to your computer ... Toolbar - File > Save As > Web page, Complete.

Then if you ever need to do another BC calculation,  just input the values into the calculator that you save on your computer.

If you really want to get scientific, here is Ballistics Coefficient (Velocity) calculator ... (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

Actually, the BC of any bullet in a reload should be calculated at the distance of POI
  
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creedmoormatch
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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #36 - Mar 31st, 2011 at 10:19am
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Quote:
Creedmoor, here is the best ballistics coefficient calculater there is...


  Hi John Boy:   I really appreciate your getting back with this additional information.

  As I mentioned to Mr. J. Lewis, I'm already shooting the Hoch #322-200 bullet, but have never known the B.C.  The reason that information would be helpful, is that, often times I need to "zero" my rifle/s at 100 yards distance, even though I compete at 200 yards.

  By using the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook published ballistics charts and knowing my particular M.V. , bullet weight, and bullet B.C. , I can pick-up from the charts what the "bullet path" will be, i.e., bullet drop in inches.  When I get to the competition at 200 yards, it's simply a matter of adding the necessary M.O.A. elevation to my scope to off-set the bullet drop, shoot a few "sighters" to fine tune and I'm good to go.

 Of the three components used in the charts, the B.C. is the least precise and may be fudged, but it I knew the exact the B.C. for the Hoch bullet, that would remove just one element of uncertainty.

 Thanks again and best regards,

 Creedmoormatch

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frnkeore
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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #37 - Mar 31st, 2011 at 11:41am
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CM,
With that second calculator that John listed, you can get the exact BC. You just need two chronographs. Everyone should have there own and either barrow someone else's or buy a Chrony chronograph, there under $100. Fire a few shots, average the velocity's and run the numbers in the JMB calculator.

Frank
  

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creedmoormatch
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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #38 - Mar 31st, 2011 at 2:39pm
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  Hello Frank ;

      What I was indicating to John B. is, that heretofore, I was just looking up the "Bullet Path" in the Lyman Charts; 1)using the known Hoch bullet weight after having weighted then, and; 2) using the muzzle velocity after having Chronographed then, but not knowing the B.C., I was using a "best guess" approach based on the length and nose configuration as seen in Lyman's materials.

      For instance, the Lyman bullet No. 323471 (actually an 8 MM) has a published B.C. of .475 (taken from the Lyman chart), and bullet No. 323470 has a published B.C. of .187.

     Referring to Lyman's chart, and using my chronographed M.V. of 1300 f.p.s. the No. 323471 bullet if "zeroed" at 100 yards will drop to minus 23.68 inches at 200 yards; whereas the No. 323470 bullet if "zeroed" at 100 yards will drop to minus 27.03 inches at 200 yards; for a delta of 3.35 inches.

One-half of the delta equals 1.675 inches which, when added to the shortest drop of 23.68 inches, equals a total bullet drop of 25.355 inches.

    So on the day of the 200 yard match, I would simply add 25 1/4 inches of elevation (1/4 M.O.A. EQUALS 1/2 inch change to P.O.I. @ 200 yards distance) to my scope setting which is zeroed at 100 yards; make a few "sighters" and fine tune to a 200 yard zero for that relay.

   The information that John B. provided to me earlier will now allow me to short cut right to the actual calculations.

   Frank, thanks for your input of the subject.  Every little bit helps.

   Regards,

   Creedmoormatch

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frnkeore
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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #39 - Mar 31st, 2011 at 5:13pm
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CM,
Neither of those bullets compare with yours. Yours will have a BC better than the 32370 but, not near as good as the 323471. the 323471 is a 220 gr simi-sptizer with the highest BC of any of there older bullets of comparable SD.  I would say that your BC would be in the order of .3 or slightly more.

Best regards,

Frank
  

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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #40 - Apr 1st, 2011 at 8:56am
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I have to agree with John here we get way to carried away with what it says on a graph or a program some egghead who never shot a rifle much less a single shot designed. If it worked that way we would never have to shoot just plug our superior numbers into the computer and tell them where to sent the big money prize. 
Here is an easy way to move your rifle from 100 to 200. Take your rifle zeroed for 100 yards and put the cross hairs on the bottom a 200 yard offhand target adjust the scope to the top of the target sight in on the center of the target, fire a shot, adjust to center, fire for effect. 
A friend taught me that stunt years ago and I'll guarantee it came from practical knowledge not the computer. 

40 Rod
  
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creedmoormatch
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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #41 - Apr 1st, 2011 at 9:24am
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Here is an easy way to move your rifle from 100 to 200. Take your rifle zeroed for 100 yards and put the cross hairs on the bottom a 200 yard offhand target adjust the scope to the top of the target sight in on the center of the target, fire a shot, adjust to center, fire for effect. 40 Rod


     Thanks 40 Rods -  -  -  -How about this ?  This could be done at home in one's den or living room w/out driving to the the range.  Given; the rifle has a developed, accurate load which has been zeroed with the scope at 100 yards under actual shooting conditions.  Next day at home, measure the height of the ASSRA off-hand 200 yard target in inches.  Then by using a bore scope (mine has in the view finder, a grid which represent 1/4 inches per square) attach it to the rifle barrel and elevate the shooting scope sufficiently to equal the height measurement in inches of the target.

Aren't we achieving identically the same thing ?

Creedmoormatch

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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #42 - Apr 1st, 2011 at 2:17pm
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40Rod, I think you got that backwards. If your 100yd. sighted rifle was fired at the top of a 200yd target it would hit the bottom and you would move your crosshairs to the hole and be on target.
  

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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #43 - Apr 1st, 2011 at 8:48pm
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Oh! "I see" said the blind man! 
  The full turn method is easier to remember:
"If you're moving out...screw it out. If you're moving in...screw it in."
  

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Re: 32-40 & Alliant 300MP MIKE-T
Reply #44 - Apr 2nd, 2011 at 8:34am
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40_Rod wrote on Apr 1st, 2011 at 8:56am:
I have to agree with John here we get way to carried away with what it says on a graph or a program some egghead who never shot a rifle much less a single shot designed. If it worked that way we would never have to shoot just plug our superior numbers into the computer and tell them where to sent the big money prize. 
Here is an easy way to move your rifle from 100 to 200. Take your rifle zeroed for 100 yards and put the cross hairs on the bottom a 200 yard offhand target adjust the scope to the top of the target sight in on the center of the target, fire a shot, adjust to center, fire for effect. 
A friend taught me that stunt years ago and I'll guarantee it came from practical knowledge not the computer. 

40 Rod

I'm quite sure that this is backwards. To move the crosshairs UP we have to turn the elevation knob clockwise = DOWN. If we do this and then put the crosshairs on center of the target and shoot, the bullet will be way low.
I think we must start at the TOP of the target and move the knob CCW = UP and the x hairs DOWN.
1knob rev. = .025" = 50 clicks = ~12.5" at 100 yards, ~25" at 200 yards.
joe b. often wrong, never in doubt
  
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