I would get (because I use it in reloading my RB) the lee universal decapping die.

Reason:    If you are using BP, you may not want to full length resize.
The universal decapping die will remove the primers withouth resizing the brass.   The cases may fireform to the chamber.  If that's the case, you may only want to neck resize.

If shooting BP, you might consider a compression die from BAC.   GOEX thrives on compression.    I would also recommend an over powder wad for two reasons:

1.  Gives the compression die something to "push" against.
2.  Keeps bullet lube from contaminating the powder.

And if shooting BP, a newspaper overprimer wad will tighten the group.
BAC sells the overprimer wad punches.   

A case care kit which will have a primer pocket cleaner, brushes, case lube, and a chamefer.   You will need to chamafer the case mouth of new cases so you can get the bullet into the case.

If shooting BP you will definitely need a case tumbler. You'll probably need one anyway.   An hour or so in the tumbler will clean the cases almost as good as new.

A set of scales for weighing powder.   You can get by with volumetrics with BP but with smokless and old actions...you NEED to take care.   

Finally, with cut down cases, you may need to anneal the mouth of the case.   Hornaday makes an anealing kit.

Last but not least, I and others, have found Federal Large Rifle, or CCI large rifle primers to have less variance then Winchester Primers.  They may work fine for you, but you should consider others.

Merle

a 50-45 rolling block was my very first BP cart gun. I bought one of the original surplus barrels at a gun show for 35.00. never been on a gun. Mint. Bought an action for 150. sent it all to a gunsmith friend.

I bought Gain Twist Brass. Rocky Mountain Cartridge has that operation now, I believe. It may seem pricey, but no sizing needed and they are properly head stamped.

Ch-4D, at least used to, makes dies for it. The proper length for seating. They are in fact 50-45 loading dies. I used a rapine smith bullet mold. .515 dia. 

tried fff, ff and swiss 1.5 f. All worked in it when drop tubed, .30 fiber wad on top of powder and no crimp, just a snug bit to hold but not break the lead of the bullet. 20=1 lead tin mix. SPG or Emmerets lube. SPG is good and you don't have to make it.

The rapine smith bullet has a tapered base and is easy on the expensive brass because having to bell the case to accept the bullet is kept to a minimum and that can weaken the brass over time. IMO.

it is a fun fun fun bullet to shoot! smoke and fire with half the kick!! well, maybe not half, but comfortable to shoot.

Let us know how it goes!

Merwin

I appreciate the replies so far--thank you very much.

MerwinBray--I guess I don't understand about not cutting the case length from a .50-70.  The .50-70 has a case length of 1.75", while the .50-45 is 1.37".  I tried to chamber a .50-70 cartridge in my RRB carbine this past summer, but could not.


T

Anybody?

The C-H dies from Buffalo Arms you asked about are the correct ones.  I have a feeling the brass you were sent is wrong length. 

You can verify this with a chamber cast.  this process  is easy to do.  If you don't have cerrosafe, the bismuth alloy that brownells sells, you can do a cast with sulfur.  the casts are more fragile, but sulfur is cheap, and the dimensions will be just as true.  Get pure sulfur, heat very slowly in a clean, dry soup can or the like (place the can on an electric burner inside an iron frypan or the like)  Don't use an aluminum or teflon pan as bad things will happen when you overheat a dry pan!!)  Remove the extractor and breechblock, oil the chamber and first 3/4" or so of the bore. Pack a couple dry cleaning patches tightly in the bore just ahead of the chamber.  Hold the gun vertical and pour the melted sulfur (about the consistency of honey) into the chamber and let it solidify.  then pop the cast out with a cleaning rod onto a padded surface.  You should have a precise cast of your chamber and a bit of the rifling as well.

Questions about dies, case length and others could be handled by Dave at C-H.  He's a great guy, an absolute encyclopedia of reloading knowledge, and loves talking on the phone.  Best to call him in the early evening.  You can get the dies directly from C-H if you prefer.  Cost is the same, but Dave get's all the money, which is a nice way to reimburse him for his phone time.  740-397-7214      

And, yes, the dies are more costly than common calibers, but the .50 Carbine dies are about half the cost of the .44-100 Peabody What Cheer dies from C-H that I needed to get my creedmoor shooting again!!

Dave has a lot of stuff on hand.  You'd have to inquire about your specific caliber.  I believe price is the same at Buffalo, so you could source it either place.  I guess the email is on the website(??) I usually talk to him on the phone. I searched my mail but don't seem to have any email address.

The dies through CH are classified as custom dies.
They were a little bit pricey but hey you arn't going to find a set any other way.

Good Luck Ken.