Hi Don ---were the folks to whom you were speaking shooting official ASSRA German ring competition targets at 200 yards?   Actually the "Bull's Eye" on our targets is the 25 point center circle which measures 1 1/2 inches in diameter.  What you are calling "...a lot of white around the bull ..." is actually " orange around the bull", and yes the orange does measure 12 inches in diameter.

Obviously, high powdered bench rest shooter are using an NRA, or some other organization's official targets.

I assume the part of your question speaks about the front sight aperture, as opposed to the rear sight aperture.  Front sights such as the Lyman No. 17 A have an I.D. of 0.435" into which an insert fits and the insert is held in place by a threaded outer tube.  The various inserts are available is numerous configurations, and the aperture variety come is different diameters.

The best approach to your question would be for you to personally select the front sight in the diameter which provides the best sight picture for your eyes and light conditions.  Then once you've decided what is best for you, next select the sight insert aperture when you arrive at a competition on any given day.  The amount of light, or lack of it, will be the important consideration in picking the appropriate insert for shooting on that specific day.  During the day as light conditions change, you may find the need to change the insert during the course of shooting.

Hope this is helpful or even may raise more questions than it has answered, but that is how we come to understand.  With this type of shooting there are no standard (one answer fits all) answers.  We are all learning, and the way one does that best is by trying different approaches and evaluating them as we go along.

Best wishes and much accuracy,

Creedmoormatch

Hi DonN !!!

Nice to see you back !!!  I’ll try to do better this time…  

The subject of sight systems has been on-going for a few hundred years.. If you consider the shooters age, eyesight, weather conditions and type of target, we’re lucky to get a shot off before the sun goes down..  All good information here if you use the “Ghost-Ring” front aptiure but you may want to consider a sharp-top blade or a flat-top post for an all around locater that needs no change through the day.. Just set the target on the top and fire away..

My favorite is a V shaped orifice that I cut from a large blank so I can see enough to just fit the target in the “yoke” and pull..

Good Luck !!!

Ed….

On the ASSRA target using the large red bull side, front sight I run the largest aperture possible. 

Rear sight adjust  the aperture according to ambient light conditions looking for a sharp edge to the front's rim. Stopping it down to a smaller hole improves the picture then quickly makes it shut out as light decreases.   I often switch mine during a match as light changes.

You can do good work small and precise on the front, If you have very good eyesight, anybody else is better off with a light of light around the bull.  I think you will find consensus on aperture sizes across the iron sight rifle disciplines.  Big front stopped down rear.

Boats

To elaborate a bit more.  It's not important shooting paper targets with round bulls to have a clear picture of the aiming bull. Fuzzy is fine and no obstacle to good work.  Fuzzy view of the bull is the reason for a lot of light around it. Sharp eyes that can focus the bull and front aperture can get away with a minimum of light, and probably the reason we have two points of view on the subject.

Very sharp edge of the front aperture is essential though. Sharpness is controlled by the size and amount stopped down on your rear.  Small as the ambient light allows your eyes to focus.

No different than a camera where small aperture gives the sharpest picture, and least light going through the lens which requires compensating by keeping the shutter open longer.  That's were it gets different than a camera.  Human eye particularly when older and less elastic sight picture is best as soon as you look and falls off longer you hold.  Camera it's not a negative as long as the lens is steady.

Two different matches I shot years ago with some guys in there 70's & 80's learned they kept there eyes closed once settled into position. Then opened and broke the shot as soon as they saw the sight picture.  Never thought much about it then but as I get into my early 60's use the method with good results. 

As a side benefit it makes you very aware of maintaining a natural point of aim. It has to be natural and centered if you are going to break the trigger as soon as you see the target come into your sights.

Last I find my scores same rifle and course of fire good light outdoors using aperture iron sights F&R are only about 1 to 2 % lower than with a 20x scope.  100 shot Hudson match perhaps 50 points out of 2500 possible.

Boats