I can think of no cartridge that has taken more deer or is more maligned than a 30 -30 WCF. A 30 -30 would be perfectly appropriate in any of the stronger single shot actions. Also keep in mind that when Pope wanted a hunting rifle he ordered a Winchester High Wall in 30 – 40 Kraig. Those would be my two choices.

40 Rod

Quote:


I think that the 44-40 is second behind the 30-30 Win in the number of deer killed over the years.

Lots of deer have been taken with any of the old cartridges down to .22LR.  That said, most states have a minimum size whether based on bore or muzzle energy.  As already stated, most eastern whitetails aren't all that hard to kill.  Mulies and some of the larger western whitetails take a bit more.  The question really is just how marginal do you wish to be for a less than optimal shot.....which is where the extra power and flatter shooting rounds show their worth.   

Now we'd all like to think that we shoot under one MOA under any condition, but reality is of course quite different.  Cold, unpredictable winds and just being beat from a day of hiking diminishes my performance and I don't think I'm alone.  Pope's choice of the 30-40 gave him superior range and power for the day and remains an excellent choice for just about any N.American game in the lower 48 under reasonable conditions.  Any round has its limitations and acceptable envelope for use.  Respect that envelope and all is fine.  Push it and sooner or later one has a frustrating search for a wounded animal.

Personally I think 800 lbs of energy at the expected maximum target distance is about the minimum in my area.  In the small woodlots of the east I want myself and those that hunt my lands to drop them where they stand.  The shots are fairly close range and I expect decent placement from everyone and for folks to pass on shots when there is any doubt.  Wounded game can cross multiple ownerships before succumbing and some of those owners don't allow hunting....even of wounded game....on their lands.  This year we took 7 deer off our land and the farthest any went was about 50 yards…No lost game and no beating the briar patches for wounded game.  The most powerful round used was .303 Brit and the least powerful was a fairly hotly loaded 7.62x39 out of a CZ bolt action.

Lots (if not most) hunters have shot big game under a much wider variety of conditions than I and will have different opinions.   Most of those opinions are valid given a set of assumptions on conditions.  What YOUR conditions are is more important than what we guess might be right for you.

“big calibers and a bunch of kick” are relative concepts.  Felt recoil has as much to do with the weight of the rifle and stock design as it does with the cartridge.  The big slug BP cartridges shot from lighter weight rifles with period appropriate stocks will produce a lot more felt recoil than modern high-speed cartridges of much greater muzzle energy shot from rifles with modern designed stocks.  Of course if a rifle weighs enough just about anything produces relatively light recoil.  My lightweight Martini in No.2 musket gives a respectable slap whereas my Sharps long-range 50-90 hardly moves in comparison.  Of course the Martini weighs in just over 6 pounds and the Sharps weighs in just under 12.  It all is a matter of trade offs.  If I am ever lucky enough to go buffalo hunting I’m taking the Sharps.  However for eastern whitetails hauling it in the brush would be a royal pain…..hence this year it was the  Martini.

In all honesty I’ve never felt the recoil on a shot while hunting with any firearm (including some real kickers), since the excitement of the hunt tends to blot out anything else.  The only time I really notice recoil is when working from the bench at the range.  For this I normally use a shooting jacket with built in shoulder pad (or in a pinch an old sock under my shirt).  Yeah I’m a whimp, but while I enjoy spending hours at my range I don’t enjoy a bruised shoulder and don’t consider it a badge of honor.  However recoil felt at the bench is irrelevant to using the rifle in the field and I would never make my hunting arm selection with that as a major criterion.  As stated above, I don’t ever remember feeling heavy recoil from a hunting shot, even the time I cut my eyebrow on a scope.  Only when blood got in my eye did I notice it.   

If you don't mind a a new poster's ideas. When I say good to XXX, I mean that in my opinion that if placed with "minute of coffee-cup saucer" accuracy on the deer, the bullet will do the job. After 300 or so, the trajectory is a problem for me with a lot of these.
Feel free to blast away at this, it's all just my opinion

The U.S. classics 
25/35     good to 150 (or a bit less )
30-30     good to 200+
30-40     good to 300+
32 Winchester       good to 200+
.348 Winchester    good to 300+
38-55     good to 200
45-70     good to 300+

English classics
.300 flanged magnum (a rimmed .300 H&H) good to 400+
.303    good to 300+
400/350 Rigby   good to 300

European classics
7x57r     good to 300+
7.62x54r (Russian)   good to 300+
8x57r   good to 300+

Modern
225 Winchester    good to 100, ?, some would say too light a bullet
7-30 Waters    Good to 200
30R Blaser    good to 400+
.307 Winchester    good to 200+
356 Winchester    good to 300
375 Winchester    good to 200
444 Marlin    Good to 200+


Dino in Reno
who is thinking of  Martini cadet action in 6.8 SPC, which I'll call 270-30 Waters rimless 

Find a cartridge you like the look and history of. If it has 1,000 Ft Lbs on the target at the range you are shooting at, it will likely do the job.
The BIG question is classic or modern cartridge and rifle style 
One friend mule deer hunts with a Ruger #1 in 300 Winchester magnum with big glass, big recoil pad, and modern style wood on the rifle. I want to do a classic looking Martini cadet in a 6.5mm to 7mm for a light "stalking" rifle. I would love a 1885 type in 375 H&H flanged, or the regular 375 H&H. 
Get what you like

Dino in Reno

I have such an 1885...and I just saw an Issac Hollis Rook rifle that struck my fancy. aaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhh!