Just getting started in this game, been shooting a 38-55 for a couple of matches. 
I now have a Douglas premium 26 inch 1-16 twist barrel going on my 1885 highwall.   
After doing a search for 32-40 I find that the 1-16 barrel will do better with a 165-175 grain cast bullets, is that right? What is going to be the best shaped bullet for the 32?
Any ideas on a good mold?
The groove dia. of the Douglas is .320.....
Anyone have an extra 32 mold they want to sell or give?
I guess that I'll need a bullet seater also, I need a phone number of that guy that makes the lever seater, can't remember the name right off.
Who makes the best dies?  I'll make the brass from either 30-30 or 38-55 brass, after that I guess I won't really need the dies.
any and all help will be appreated on this venture, thanks Van

Van,

    Boy are you in for a lot of fun!  I have been hooked on .32-40 'walls for a long time now and currently have a couple, one original plain sporter, and a take-down with a Green Mtn barrel.  For 1 in 16 twist you can probably go as high as 175-185 gr and not have stability problems.  I like the classic Hudson style 185 gr, of which Lyman made a couple that show up on flea-Bay every now and then.  They also made a spire point called the French bullet (for WH French, not the nationality) that goes about 175-180gr and I have used with good results.  If you want a new custom mould on the other hand, you can't go wrong with a bullet mould from B&D.  

   My mechanical breech seater was made by Willis (aka singleshot) Gregory and I highly recommend his work.  It gives good mechanical advantage to seat a slightly oversized bullet as needed.   

    For loads, I start with a base load of about 13.5 or so of IMR 4759 and go up a bit as needed to get the results I want.  I seldom if ever use a wad or filler of any kind with the .32-40, whether fixed or breech seated.  

    BTW, why are you talking about forming .32-40 brass from something else?  It is normally available from Graf & Sons, Buffalo Arms and others as bulk packed virgin unprimed brass with the proper headstamp.  What I have seen was made by Winchester.  If you can't get the proper brass, I would suggest Starline's new full length .38-55 brass and a set of RCBS or Lee full length sizing dies.  Lube sparingly and go 1/2 way down, retreat, then completely size and you will have good results without any other prep or problems.  

HTH - stay in touch!
Green Frog

PS FWIW, I had a Douglas-barreled Ruger #1 in that caliber that really liked a fixed round of 195 gr with about 14.6 of IMR 4227 behind it. 

Van,

  The Green one gives good advice. About the only change I'd suggest is to use IMR 4227 for a powder. SR 4759 is a good powder but I've personally gotten better results with IMR 4227. Somewhere around 13.6 to 14-0 grs. for a 165 - 185 gr. bullet & 14.2 -14.6 for a 200 gr. one. If you want to try BP then 42.0 grs. of Swiss 1 1/2 for the 200 gr. bullet.

  All the 1-16" twist .32/40's I've owned all worked well with a 185 gr. flat nosed bullet out to at least 200 yds.. This wgt. seems to have been the preferred wgt. by the old time Schuetzen shooters.

  For a bullet wgt., or more properly length, you will need bullets in the 165 to 185 gr. wgt. But, this is not necessarily written in stone. I have a Schoyen-Ballard with a 1-16" twist that shoots very well with a 200 gr. bullet. If you read some of the old literature you will see this was a very sore point with the shooters back then. For some reason SOME 1-16" twist guns will shoot heavier bullets than others by the same maker won't. The best thing to do is see if you can get ahold of some 200 grainers and see if your gun will handle them. To further illustrate the above.... I have a Win. HW in .32/40 with 1-16" twist that will shoot the same 200 gr. bullet mentioned above like a house afire at 100 yds., but is lucky to hit the target at 200.

  For moulds there are several custom makers that will give you anything you want, within reason. Of the semi-custom makers I like NEI. Good moulds, reasonable prices, and decent turnaround. I have had several made over the years and have not been disappointed in any of them.

  Loading dies. Here you get what you pay for. I like RCBS. Some will tell you that LEE and CH4D are good. I've never gotten a LEE set so won't comment on them. As for CH4D the two sets I had were not good and the .28/30 set was so bad I had to send it back for a refund.

  As Frog points out you can buy .32/40 brass from several sources. But, as you indicate, you have .38/55 so that can be worked down per Frogs instructions and will work just as well. If you can get ahold of .375 Win. brass they are a little thicker and make real good everlasting cases.

Willis Gregory (Singleshot on here) makes a good breech seater. I have one in .38/55 for my Win. HW.

  I like to use a wad down CLOSE to the powder. You don't want to rest the wad on the powder. About .100" -.200" is what's recommended. It works for me but if you have any qualms (chamber ringing) about it don't use it. I use a wad punched out of milk cartons (.025"). The idea is to get the powder positioned equally from shot to shot for a consistent burn. Something hard to do if no wad is used. If you're a little shaky when putting the case into the chamber you might look at a thin wad in just the mouth of the case. Keeps powder from spilling into the action which is a real pain. Why do I know that? 

  Your .320" groove diam. seems a little small for the .32/40. In any case I'd size your bullet .321".

  I think that answers your questions. Feel free if you have more.

PETE