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wislnwings
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1915 Favorite
Mar 3rd, 2008 at 8:11am
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I picked up a 1915 Stevens Favorite a few weeks ago and shot it yesterday for the first time. The first thing I noticed after chambering the first round was that the round to chamber fit is loose. The second observation was that after firing a few rounds through the rifle I noticed the extractor was not extracting the brass. It was slipping past the rim. Also on one of the rounds I fired the case split down its length. This was just a walk in the woods plinking so I have no idea how accurate it really is. Is this normal for these rifles or should I be looking into having the barrel relined or possibly a new barrel? I'd like to turn this into a handy little squirrel rifle and one I can teach my neice and nephew to shoot.
  
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Green_Frog
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Re: 1915 Favorite
Reply #1 - Mar 3rd, 2008 at 8:26am
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If the bore is good and only the chamber is worn out, a competent gunsmith can sleeve the chamber only and you will be back in business.  I had that done on a little Page-Lewis (as well as a Ruger .22 auto pistol) with excellent results.

HTH ~ Froggie
  
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wislnwings
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Re: 1915 Favorite
Reply #2 - Mar 3rd, 2008 at 8:46am
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Thanks for the advice.  What ballpark should I expect to pay to have the chamber sleeved?  I recently moved back to this area so shopping around for a gunsmith I'd like to have some idea of what to expect.  Also, the barrel appears good, but I'd like to have the gunsmith check it out also.  If I relined the barrel what kind of expense should I expect (again, ballpark)?
  
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Redwing
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Re: 1915 Favorite
Reply #3 - Mar 3rd, 2008 at 10:38am
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Hi Wislnwings !!!

Must have been a common problem when shooting thousands of rounds through the older barrels… Shocked

One of my older Favorites has a relined chamber sleeve that you never would know about unless you found the tiny screw under the breach. A very old repair that speaks volumes about the gunsmiths of yesterday.. 

I’ve had quotes to reline Favorite's at about 100.00….

Ed…
  
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Green_Frog
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Re: 1915 Favorite
Reply #4 - Mar 3rd, 2008 at 11:46am
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The last chamber relines I had done were about 15 or so years ago, and IIRC the 'smith only charged about $25 or so.  I assume it would be more today.  As for the full liner, that will vary by the cost of the liner itself, but I would expect to pay closer to $200 for the complete job than the $100 Redwing found, at least here in Central VA.

Froggie
  
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Redwing
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Re: 1915 Favorite
Reply #5 - Mar 3rd, 2008 at 12:13pm
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Hey Green one !!!

Life is always cheaper in States where there is no work !!! Wink

Ed.....
  
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wislnwings
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Re: 1915 Favorite
Reply #6 - Mar 3rd, 2008 at 12:22pm
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Thanks guys.  I think I'm going to go ahead and have the barrel relined.
  
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Green_Frog
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Re: 1915 Favorite
Reply #7 - Mar 3rd, 2008 at 2:37pm
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Upon rereading the whole thread and under the circumstances described, I believe that would be my choice as well... if the chamber is worn that badly, the bore is probably marginal at best.  If you do proceed in that direction, make sure that you use the best liner available.  The price break is not that great between the best and the also-rans, and if it is done right the first time, you will never have cause to regret it!  JMHO!  Wink  Regardless, I hope you will enjoy your little Favorite.  There is a very real reason they have that name!  Smiley

Froggie
  
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38_Cal
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Re: 1915 Favorite
Reply #8 - Mar 3rd, 2008 at 3:52pm
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"There is a very real reason they have that name!  Smiley
 
Froggie"

Ummm, marketing?   Wink

David
Montezuma, IA
  

David Kaiser
Montezuma, IA
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creedmoormatch
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Re: 1915 Favorite
Reply #9 - Mar 5th, 2008 at 9:43am
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You are most likely looking at a full reliner in your Favorite.  There are two levels of barrel liners; the better quality liners are hammer forged over a mandrel and are very consistent, straight and heavy walled.  The second level down are thin walled, buttoned rifled.

I recently did a Favorite with a hammer forged liner---the liner was $85.00 and the labor was $100.00.   You can expect to pay from a low end of $185 up to $250.

As an alternative to sending the job out, you can purchase the less expensive (and lesser quality) liners from Brownells, plus the Permatex adhesive, and instruction sheet on how to installed the liner at home using your 3/8 " electric hand drill and save some $  $  $  $

  
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38_Cal
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Re: 1915 Favorite
Reply #10 - Mar 5th, 2008 at 10:28am
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By the time you buy the long drill and chamber reamer for one job, it might be better to send it out.  There IS a learning curve, ya know!

David
Montezuma, IA
  

David Kaiser
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sakoman
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Re: 1915 Favorite
Reply #11 - Mar 5th, 2008 at 11:21am
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Who makes the higher quality liners?

thanks,

AC
  
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38_Cal
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Re: 1915 Favorite
Reply #12 - Mar 5th, 2008 at 11:25am
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From the B company's website Gun Parts Source List:

T.J.'s Gateway Enterprises, Inc.
3652 Neltner Road
Alexandria, KY 41001
Barrel liners
Phone: 859-635-5560
  

David Kaiser
Montezuma, IA
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creedmoormatch
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Re: 1915 Favorite
Reply #13 - Mar 5th, 2008 at 1:20pm
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38_Cal,  aka David, is right about a learning curve to overcome.  The Brownell's installation instructions make it sound as if the project is simple to undertake, as it is for the most part, but the key to achiveing a good result is the drilling of the old bore to the O.D. of the new liner.  The smith should drill 1/2 of the overall length of the barrel from the breech end and the other 1/2 from the muzzel end and the two holes need to line up in the middle of the overall length.

The danger is "run out" of the drill which will ruin the original barrel.  David also brought up a good point about the cost involved to purchase the long drill that Brownell's also sells.  In order to save some of that cost, a good smith can make up a "deep drill" by silver soldering a correct size rod unto a jobbers length drill bit of the correct diameter.

For the chamber, the smiths I know just use a twist drill bit for the 22 R.F. cartridge.
  
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J.D.Steele
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Re: 1915 Favorite
Reply #14 - Mar 5th, 2008 at 6:28pm
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Quote:
 David also brought up a good point about the cost involved to purchase the long drill that Brownell's also sells.  In order to save some of that cost, a good smith can make up a "deep drill" by silver soldering a correct size rod unto a jobbers length drill bit of the correct diameter.
.


I've done bunches of these & have not really needed a special piloted or long drill bit yet. I actually bought the Brownell's piloted long drill bits but have since abandoned them because they seem to need resharpening quite frequently, at least in the 22 size. Now I use a selection of jobber-length twist drill bits silver-soldered to 1/4" rods, in sizes from 5/16" to 3/4". Have had problems drilling from both ends so now I try to go all the way from either one end or the other.
FWIW, good luck, Joe
  
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