Thanks for the puter link Mr. Carpenter.  I see there is a single heavy link to the block from the finger lever and it is not directly levered to the block as I was told. I presume the front screw is the lever pivot also, no? 
  I plan on forging my finger lever like one I saw in a picture sent to me that reminds me of a Hawkin trigger guard and is quite attractive.
   I have never made a double set trigger before but think that it might be a neat thing to try on this conversion as the ones pictured here are very becoming. I would like to make one that fires from the back trigger in a reversal of normal double set trigger function. I have a Thompson Center Patriot pistol that is so set up and can probably  pattern this one from that design I have in hand.
  The first thing I will need to do is make a half action mock up with located pin holes so as to be able to proportion all moving parts and see there relation to one another. I'm getting very excited about trying this project on for size this winter so any information will be very greatefully considered. 
   I don't even have a definite caliber in mind yet but the 50-70 has been getting my attention of late after a friend gave me a loaded round. M. Deland

    Thanks for the reply Jerry and I see what you mean about link pin  position on both the finger lever and block being critical so the swing rations don't conflict and cause a bind. The half action jigs I have learned to make for these reciever projects have sure proven to be a time saver when having to fabricate parts and is a good idea even if one has drawings. The flat sided roller jig will be easy to make as the location of pin holes will be taken directly from it  clamped to a piece of flat stock. I then can make mock up parts so as to establish link length and pin location. 
    I just learned to do this while overhauling a Uberti Highwall and making a cc set trigger for it. I would have saved a lot of time had I made the jig from the begining. The long lever sear needed for set triggers and it's relation to the fly and hammer was a real bugaboo for me to get worked out having only pictures as a guide.
    I made my set triggers from A-2 but if one could buy them already cast in rough form with the basic shape it sure would save a lot of time. My problem will be that I want a reverse fire set up like in the Patriot pistol and will probably be forced to make them from scratch again.  The CCset for the Uberti came out well and was my first attempt at making set triggers.  I have not done either a single set or double set before. Having the Patriot pistol to break down and copy should make the job much easier. MD

The lever does not cock the hammer. My feeble mind can't see any way for this to happen in a roller. From what I've read the originals didn/t either. The lever mechanism was installed to chamber the old copper cartridges of the day. This gave more leverage for inserting the shells, especially in a dirty gun. The old buff hunters didn't appreciate having to stop and make gun take a shell. Also the ramrod was to punch out a stuck shell. These modifications were originally for utility. Two originals were sold at auction earlier last year.I think they were from Frank Sellers collection.Thanks for kind words. Jerry

I believe that Frank de Haas, in one of his books, shows the design of a Belgian (I believe) roller that cocked the hammer via struts and then rolled the block back via leverage against a lower block extension. Actually a rather simple design but would require lots of bench work for the prototype today.

I believe he also showed another lever-action roller design with a separate locking block, one that didn't depend upon the hammer alone.

The main problem with these improved roller designs is that they didn't come along until later, when many stronger, lighter, safer actions were available.
Regards, Joe

I am looking at a patent drawing of an "automatic" Rolling Block. It is the Fruend, number 160,762 

All I can think, was "Wow!" 

It looks like a complicated and fragile means to an end resut. The linkages that actuate everything look especially tough to build, I think...

Not too tough to figure why there are not a lot of them around. The design takes all the simplicity right out of a Rolling Block design.

Cheers
  Trev

Keep in mind that this is a Gove Underlever, from what I've read Gove bought rights to Freund's patent. They might have had the cocking mechanism in their patent but this doesn't mean Gove put it in the ones he built. In looking again of pics of the original Gove it seems to be set up without the cocking addition. It takes all the lever movement just to roll the block, thus the hammer has to be cocked before the block even moves. From what I can tell from the pics his link is set up just like the ones I built. The machinest drawings I have are supposed to be a copy of the original set up. Jerry

The block and lever are connected by a link. The link is pinned to the block and lever. The block has a slot machined for the link to fit with a pin thru both, as does the lever. The geometry of this part is very critical as to the block being closed with lever up, and then open enough with lever down for the cartridge to clear. JS

Quote:



I have been looking for drawings or photos of the conversion you made.  If you ever have that action apart, I would really appreciate seeing photos of the block/link/lever.  I have a roller waiting for the conversion.  I prefer that to the toilet handle version  .
Thanks,
Gus