I am looking for a muzzle rest - I call it a sled - for a schuezten rifle.  I have used the "pope" sled that Buffalo Arms sells and it's okay.  But I would be interested in other options - potentially a bit larger and heavier perhaps.   
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Does anyone make such a beast - for putting on a round barrel of about 1.0625" or so...

Brent

Welllllllll

Hello Brent,
Mr Borchardts design does have a few problems. Remember the stock bolt doesn't come out of the action parallel to the tangs but cocked slightly upwards at an angle of 84.93 degrees to the buttress between the tangs. Make the drilling angle 85 degrees and you won't be far out. Just be very carefull of where the hole is in relation to the upper side of the pistol grip, the wood gets very, very, thin there.

Try laying the stock on the floor first, place the receiver with the stockbolt in place on the side of the stock and eyeball just how close the stockbolt gets to the upperside of the pistol grip. Then go and pour yourself a stiff one, you may need it.

The stockbolt angle is fine for the military stock which is straight, but bloody awkward when a civilian pistol grip stock is to be fitted.

Harry

Hello Brent,
I had thought of making the stockbolt angle as you suggested, but it would have meant that with the stock design I plan to use,  that the stockbolt hole would terminate just where the lower buttplate screw should be.

Blowing off steam somtimes helps when you have something that's not going quite right. Walk away from it for a day until all the steam has gone. Then come back to it. That's what I do.

Harry

Wouldn't that look tacky on a Zischang style rifle?   

Seriously, thanks!  That might be the ticket, but I have a few places to check yet.

Brent

Brent

On your through hole.  I pull a couple of dodges when doing long and deep drilling. I just drilled 6  unlimited class fishing rod butts. 3/4 inch 18 inches deep in 12/4 Ash end grain. Straight and right in the center of the blanks. I have used the same method for the few through bolt stocks I have built.

First I put a small tube in my drill presses chuck and thred a plum bob through it. Drop it down to index on a hole in some plywood that has a lathe center droped in. and C clamped to the Drill press table.  The lathe center keeps the blank aligned while drilling and is large enough to index on the top hole once reversed. Align everything up nice and drill the hole from both ends. 

Start short to finish diamater with a Forstner bit for a clean entry. and then smaller than required.for the rest.  I generaly step up a couple of drills for the long hole using the long bits Electricans use for snaking wire. Then I ream to size with a home made reamer.  Some times I will use a Masonary drill thats the right size with it's shank bushed up with masking tape.  I ream with a hand held power drill and the blank clamped in my bench vise.  You can't see the rougher inside hole, only the nice and clean Forstner bit entry holes in either end.

I can do it on the lathe too but think the Drill press is better when the holes get over about 12 inches deep. This is how most bed post are drilled for tennons when building a 4 poster. I learned it from a local bed maker years ago.

Now the real trick. Once the hole is drilled I index & lay out everything else off the hole.  The wood is larger than required by an inch or so thickness and even more width so if the hole is not right in the center no problem. You just plane or in my case turn off the excess bringing everything else in line. I will admit it can be wastefull of wood but not a whole lot. In the case of your Borchart odd angle it makes it easy. The odd part is just bandsawn off the previously drilled hole.

Boats