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Paul_F.
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Getting the handles off a Lee mold?
Feb 16th, 2007 at 7:27pm
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Thanks to a fine member of this board, I have acquired a rifle in .380 Rook (almost, but not quite, a .38 Long Colt).

In order to feed it, I need a bullet almost, but not quite, like a 150gr round nosed .358 (.38 special) bullet.  The "not quite" part is it needs a .376 diameter stop-ring on it to ride the groove diameter (the bullet is rebated inside the case, like .310 Cadet or .22 LR).

So... being too poor to afford a proper "professional" mold, and possessing a lathe, I want to bore out a cheap Lee 358-150-1R mold with that .376 driving band.

That's not the hard part...as it turns out.

What I did not consider before laying out the princely sum of $18 for the mold complete with handles is that Lee handles are blind-pinned through the mold block to the mold!

Does anyone have experience getting these staked in, blind holed pins OUT of a Lee mold?
Are they ONLY staked in? Or are they PRESSED in, THEN Staked?
If the pins are pressed AND staked, starting over with some 2024 aluminum bar stock is starting to sound easier...

Suggestions appreciated (even "You idiot... you should have just dropped the (insert $ amount here) on a REAL mold from (insert mold maker here)! Smiley   ).

Paul F.
  
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Jeff_Schultz
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Re: Getting the handles off a Lee mold?
Reply #1 - Feb 16th, 2007 at 8:03pm
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Drill down to the pins from the top, knock 'em out, and away you go!
  

"We have met the enemy and he is us." Pogo

“There is no situation so bad that it cannot be made worse."

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Paul_F.
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Re: Getting the handles off a Lee mold?
Reply #2 - Feb 16th, 2007 at 8:21pm
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Hmm...
Simple.. Straightforward... effective..

No WONDER I didn't think of it!  LOL!
(DUH!)   Grin

Thanks!

Paul F.
  
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westerner
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Re: Getting the handles off a Lee mold?
Reply #3 - Feb 16th, 2007 at 9:03pm
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Or you could buy a bigger lathe and leave the handles on.  Joe.
  

A blind squirrel runs into a tree every once in a while.
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hst
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Re: Getting the handles off a Lee mold?
Reply #4 - Feb 16th, 2007 at 9:38pm
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Shucks,
Why don't you just have Vinny and Guido fix this for you too?

Glenn
  
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Paul_F.
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Re: Getting the handles off a Lee mold?
Reply #5 - Feb 16th, 2007 at 11:27pm
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Oh, now.. don't be bitter...
I've seen pics of the one YOU bought!  It's quite a sweetheart!


As for swinging the whole thing on my lathe;  I thought breifly about it.. but I couldn't figure out how to strap it to my faceplate, and run it at the proper RPM's to get a good surface finish on aluminum....   

I think Jeff's idea is going to be the ticket!

Paul F.
  
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Re: Getting the handles off a Lee mold?
Reply #6 - Feb 17th, 2007 at 6:15am
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I shot a 38 rook for years and eventually invested in the correct heeled bullet mould. It was a waste of money: best accuracy is obtained with 38 special hollow based wadcutters and 3 grns of bullseye. I won two 50m Rook and Rabbit comps at Bisley with this load.
Fred.
  
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Re: Getting the handles off a Lee mold?
Reply #7 - Feb 17th, 2007 at 7:50am
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To get a mold for my 310 cadet, I modified a Lee mold for the C309-120R bullet. 

The aluminum cuts cleanly & easily. The tool was a piece of round CRS that I turned to have the right shape to recut the driving bands, and then file the tool to 1/2 diameter to make the cutting edge. No hardening is needed to cut the aluminum. 

Centering the cavity in the 4 jaw chuck took a little while. Depth of cut was set using the micrometer carriage stop. 

Have fun,
Ron

  
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Re: Getting the handles off a Lee mold?
Reply #8 - Feb 17th, 2007 at 10:17am
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For a quickie boring bar, try using a modified Allen wrench.  For aluminum or short term use on an iron mold block, there's no need to heat treat it.  To center the cavity, turn an aluminum or brass plug to just fit in the cavity on the bottom of the grease grooves, and indicate it from the outside.  Much easier than reading an indicator on the inside of the cavity.  I did this on a Lyman 3118 to make a stop ring bullet for use in a .310 Cadet, with the ring in front of the crimping groove.  Works well, no sizing needed on either the bullet or brass, just pan lube and thumb seat.

David
Montezuma, IA
  

David Kaiser
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Re: Getting the handles off a Lee mold?
Reply #9 - Feb 18th, 2007 at 9:31pm
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38_Cal wrote on Feb 17th, 2007 at 10:17am:
For a quickie boring bar, try using a modified Allen wrench.  For aluminum or short term use on an iron mold block, there's no need to heat treat it.  To center the cavity, turn an aluminum or brass plug to just fit in the cavity on the bottom of the grease grooves, and indicate it from the outside.  Much easier than reading an indicator on the inside of the cavity.  I did this on a Lyman 3118 to make a stop ring bullet for use in a .310 Cadet, with the ring in front of the crimping groove.  Works well, no sizing needed on either the bullet or brass, just pan lube and thumb seat.

David
Montezuma, IA


David -  I assume the 3118 with the 'stop ring' worked?  I've got a cadet rechambered to .32-20 for which I am considering doing the 311214 to the 'stop ring' style.    Comments?  Did you ever live in Grinnell?



  

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Re: Getting the handles off a Lee mold?
Reply #10 - Feb 18th, 2007 at 10:58pm
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The 3118 as modified works quite well.  Good enough to plink life size prairie dog silhouettes offhand at 85 yards, with issue sights.  This spring I'll have to put it on paper, after the snow's gone and the mud has firmed up!   

Nope, never lived in Grinnell.  There's a Dan Kaiser, no relation, who teaches at the college who lives there.   

David
Montezuma, IA
  

David Kaiser
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Re: Getting the handles off a Lee mold?
Reply #11 - Feb 18th, 2007 at 11:18pm
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David -

Thanks!  I'll try it on the 311415.

I grew up living next to a family of Kaiser's (on Main Street in Grinnell) who's son was named David.  Much older than I, and I was just curious.

My Dad taught at the college for 18 years, prior to moving to Atlanta ('48 to '66).
  

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