Never fear, the colorful if sometimes curmudgeonly JDS is back and all is well with the world.  See Josh's explanation in the General section, labeled "Apology."   

To Josh, if he sees this, thanks once again for doing a great job that is frequently taken for granted.  Although most of us tend to regard the use of the Internet and this Forum like air and water, it is really a job for unsung heroes like you to keep this going.  We should never "ignore the man behind the curtain."  (With proper thanks to Frank Baum!)

Regards,
Charlie Shaeff
the Green Frog

Glad you're back Joe.

So just replacing the missing parts on my SST probably isn't going to result in an operational trigger? Need an expert?


Thanks, Rob

Green_Frog wrote on Apr 30^th, 2007 at 8:41am:


JDS? Curmudgeonly?

You make it the joke, no?


Glenn

(The Win SST is a complicated little devil with many inter-related dimensions and actions. Some of the interactions can be easily adjusted but others are a problem. It appears simple at first glance but it certainly is not.)

Boy you have got this right Mr. Steele. Spent better part of a couple days with my example and it is still not right. All the pins in my set are the same diameter unlike the ones shown in Campbell and DeHass. The pins which index the trigger with the kicker and the pin over the kicker spring that goes thru the whole tang are smaller than shown.

Made a new two dia. pin, one dia. for the slot in the trigger and another dia. for the kicker. Nice no slop.

The kicker spring is less swoopy much like what is shown on page 42 of Campbell's book. It gets better, this thru pin which stops the kicker spring was filed down to about half it's dia.. I figured this did not make manufacturing sense so made and installed a new pin of full dia. and it did not work, not enough snap to trip the sear. So made another pin and split the difference and the hammer would not cock. Cut thin strips of shim stock and slid them between the spring and pin until I had just a little bit of play against the sear and then made a third pin filed to this stack thickness. This gave me a very nice unset pull but the set pull barely permit you to get your finger on the trigger before release. I have the adjustment screw backed out. It seems that the kicker is rolled to far back.

At this point I decided to give it a rest before I did something stupid with original parts and be sorry for it.

Oh by the way none of this worked when brought the rifle home.

Cheers, Andy

Rob, 
     I'm sorry to say I can't give you a name to send it to, unless one of the regulars on this board volunteers (hint, hint  ) but in answer to your other question, I used the later fly without problem on a late action SST (its problems were elsewhere) and on a coil spring action (takedown) high-wall with DSTs built by the late Ben Rice.  I would say based on my limited experience, that the later ones SHOULD work, but YMMV, especially with SSTs that are so cranky anyway.  Probably not what you wanted to hear, but...  The good news is that Ballard makes flat spring rifles, so their flies should be right for your rifle.   

Froggie

Can just the trigger group on the plate be worked on or is the entire action needed?

Bert, two more blued round top thickwalls for the data base:

114922, flatspring, 30" round .30-40, Winchester A-5, blanks in sight slots, straight grip, buttstock a replacement

124371, coilspring action only, tang bent to pg more sharply than standard, don't know what it was like originally

Bert I have now examined 124371 more closely, the lower tang fits the frame exactly as tho polished at the same time, however the blue is much worn compared to the frame, this could either be because the blue was spoiled when the tang was bent to a sharper pg OR because it is not original to the frame.  I suspect, frankly, the latter.