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That is an original forend stock (it is missing the escutcheon though).

Your measured barrel dimensions positively ID it as a No. 1. A standard No. 1 barrel is a nominal .900 at the breech end (just ahead of the threaded shank), and .740 at the muzzle. Dimensions can easily vary by .020 due to the hand polishing prior to finishing.

Your rifle is the lowest recorded serial number I have found thus far with a No. 1 barrel.  Winchester very quickly standardized the barrel size no. stamps, but many of the real early barrels were not marked on the bottom of the barrel with size no. stamp. 

I like your plan to leave it original .

Bert

Hello Rob,

Are looking to just simply reassemble it, or to have some additional work done to it?

I (for the most part) work on my own 1885s, and as such, I have never dealt with the folks at the B.R.C. concerning work on them. I contacted them for parts a few times though.

Bert

Recoil Rob, VP is View Proof, not Violent Proof.   Terminology was picked up from the Brits.

Brent,
Your story about Ballard's tactics of estimates vs. actual bills struck a chord here! I got the same result on my #4 Perfection when I had then recase the parts for my restoration. Took twice as long to do it, and cost twice what they estimated.
When I asked how it could be that different, they noted two things. First they said the parts were not polished high enough. Baloney, as my local smith had to knock the finish off the barrel with a scotchbrite pad, as he said I got my parts too well polished.
Second they said my trigger needed a small piece welded to the bottom, as it wasn't original length. I gave them that, but it wasn't worth the extra $250 they charged!-Vall

Rob, and others working on the Winchester SST,

This will probably be old news to some of you, but since the W-SST has a reputation in some circles for being cranky and unreliable, especially among those who have moved them from one rifle to another, I thought I would post some observations.  My friend JD Steele will probably want to add to them when he gets back on.

Although Winchester had a high level of parts interchangeability, the SST geometry IS a little more critical than could be completely achieved in this way.  The "tuning" of the trigger is sometimes kind of frustrating, but once it is right, they do work well.  I have an original that is virtually problem free, but the one on my .22 musket-cum-sporter was added by me on a tang that I have had bent to PG has a tendency to go out of adjustment.  My advice (FWIW) is to clean all trigger related parts squeeky clean then lube them lightly with a non-gummy oil.  The trigger adjustment screw should be turned in until the set no longer holds, then backed out until it holds the trigger to the desired level.  You may need a bit of soft locking paste (some non-hardening Loc-tite for instance) to have it stay in adjustment.  Don't overdo this and don't try for a too-light trigger.   

I hope this will be of help to those beginning or resuming the use of the Winchester SST, because it can be a very useful accessory.

Regards,
Green Frog

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I'm new here but the man seemed to garner much respect. Has he taken ill or is it politics?


Thanks, Rob

Hmmmmmmm, I wonder:


In fighting the recent spam episodes, we started banning IP address of the spammers, and a few of them came from AOl, Netscape, and a few other "common" addresses, which get recycled and reused by many people.