FITZ wrote on Jan 6^th, 2007 at 3:56pm:


Hello Fitz,

Thank you very much for the additional serial numbers. You may have noticed that I already have #131043 in my records (I saw it in James D. Julia's October 2000 auction). If you you not mind, please contact me at Win1885@msn.com as I would like to send you a survey form for #800 and #818.

Regards,
Bert

Recoil Rob,

     I once owned a similar early (but about a year or so later) .32-20 high-wall with a #1 full octagon barrel in excellent unaltered condition.  For the first couple of years before the low-walls hit the market, pistol class chamberings were frequently built with #1 or #2 profile barrels on high-wall frames with the small barrel shank.  As with many of my gun trades, I let it get away and wish I had it back.   

     Looking at yours specifically, It appears to be lacking the mainspring and the mainspring base and screw that go into that dovetail under the fore end.  In addition, it appears that the fly and its retaining pin are missing from their places in the back of the hammer, and I don't see the adjusting screw that goes into the flat behind the trigger.  I would hazard a guess that at one time the rifle wore a tang sight of some sort, hence the too-long rear tang screw.  Finally, it appears that the fore end wood may be replaced or altered...in the picture at least, the front end looks a little strange. 

     All of that being said, this rifle is what a lot of us look for, a good candidate to build on without worrying about messing up an honest old complete piece.  The small shank will mean that original barrels in #1 and #2 round and octagon will be available, perhaps from a low wall that would use that same shank.  You MIGHT get lucky and find a fore end to match the barrel you choose and the existing butt stock if you are sufficiently patient.  The missing parts I mentioned (if indeed they are not there) are all available new from Ballard Rifle Co. as repros (very high quality and fit!) and most originals show up from time to time on this board or on eBay.  Looks like you have a great project rifle there! 

Best Wishes,
Green Frog

PS  Winchester occasionally used the small shank barrels for calibers like .32-40 and .38-55, so you don't have to feel limited to pistol class calibers if you decide to rebarrel, but nice .32-20 octagon bbls in #1 or #2 profile show up often, some with good bores, some needing lining.  I would look long and hard at those if that rifle were in my shop.   

A .38-72 is as long as a .45-2.6 and it looks even longer because it's a bit skinnier.  I've got one in a #2 Winchester highwall barrel (large shank).  It's a fun gun and doesn't beat you up quite so bad.  Some of those other big boomers will punch you pretty hard using a lightweight barrel like that.

That extra hole isn't extra.  It's for the front sight base screw.  The next one back is for the knockoff spring and then the last one is the combination stock bolt/sight base screw.

Brent

Rob:

And here I thought all our new members just wanted to talk about disgusting, demeaning things like Martha's personal habits or Pan Lubing or the like.

I am with the wise and learned Mr. Steele on this one. The small shank simply won't do for the cartridge you have in mind. The receiver ring could be opened up for a large shank barrel but that has to be done correctly, and to do so would be an expensive proposition.

The action appears to be in excellent conditon and an excellent candidate for restoration. I second Mr. Steele's recommendation that you trade it off for a large shank action or pick a more suitable chambering. There were "panatella" catridges that would fit comfortably in that action. The Stevens .25-21 and .25-25 come to mind, as well as the .28-30 Stevens.

A wedding band transition, oh my!


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Glenn

Quote:


Hello Rob, 

Yes, I am collecting data on the less common frame types (like your rifle). What I would like to know is the complete serial number (you can send it to me in a Private Message or email at Win1885@msn.com if you prefer).

Bert

Rob, a small shank is a small shank.  A #2 is a #2.  They are not synonymous.   

You could also have a large shank #2.  I have a couple of them.  If that's what you had, you would be better off for a big gun.   

Brent

I dunno.   Might be.  Might depend on the .38.  They ain't all equal.  That's something that you could ask JD Steele or Campbell.  They know way more than me about that.

Brent

Here's another thought Rob. Have all the wrench marks welded up on the original barrel. Then have it relined or rebored to the larger caliber you can safely handle. Since the bore is already gone, the welding wont hurt, and if it's rust blued the welds wont show a difference in metallurgy either. That way it would be all original looking, and save a bit of money too.
There's a member here that can weld up those defects and reline it reasonably!