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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) Lubes and Lube Grooves (Read 22933 times)
Old-Win
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Lubes and Lube Grooves
Nov 26th, 2005 at 11:36am
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This is a take off of Hard vs. Soft lubes and I would like to extend it to lube grooves as well.  I know this forum has a mix of Scheutzen and BPCR shooters and hopefully will get insight from both sides.  What has had me thinking for some time is the issue of lube slinging off the the bullet as it goes down range.  Iowa has the same thoughts as I do that it continues down range for a considerable distance, especially when using the softer lubes that we do when shooting black powder.  But many of the lubes that are used by Scheutzen shooters are soft as well.  Scheutzen shooters in most matches don't have to contend with blackpowder fouling except in instances like the Ballard Match or something similar.  I don't shoot Scheutzen but have high respect for the people that do and the tiny little holes that you make so I hope to learn something from you and apply it to the larger bores.
Looking at pictures of the Pope style bullet and the Saeco/Darr bullets, they have six shallow looking lube grooves. What was the reasoning behind that style of lube groove?  Was it so there was less slinging of lube or was it for some other reason such as easier to make different width driving bands??  Can we apply this to BPCR bullets and still control fouling.  I'm beginning to think that BP fouling has less to do with the lube as it is with the temp of the barrel and how much moisture I can blow into the residue without wiping.  Would a harder lube work so that the lube that doesn't coat the barrel wall remains in the narrow lube grooves and keep the bullet more stable?  Has anybody tried a larger diameter bullet with narrower and more shallow lube grooves and with what results?  Thoughts???
  
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feather
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #1 - Nov 26th, 2005 at 12:19pm
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Old-Win

I'm not a Shuetzen shooter either and like you, I respect the accuracy that they are able to achieve.  As to the reason for shallow grooves on Shuetzen bullets, I'd like to propose the following reason as a possible answer.

Back at the turn of the 20th century, Ideal offered their "Perfection Mould" to shooters which allowed the shooter to cast various weights of bullets having different lengths.  Depending upon the caliber, the number of different bullets that could be cast with the mould ranged between four and seven.  Some of those heaviest bullets were quite long.  This was great for a Shuetzen shooter because he could try different weights and select the bullet that performed best in his rifle.

I've got to believe that cutting all those grooves in a long bullet was hard on the tool steel cherie that they used to cut the iron mould.  I suspect that to reduce springing of the cutter and to increase tool life, they made the grooves shallow as a manufacturing expediency.  Since the bullets provided good accuracy, other mould makers imitated their pattern of shallow grooves.

Does that seem to be a logical explanation?

feather
  
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PETE
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #2 - Nov 26th, 2005 at 5:11pm
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Old-Win,

  Well, I'm a Schuetzen shooter and I can't really tell you why some Schuetzen moulds have many narrow, shallow grooves. All I can do is offer my two cents worth.

  Back in the heyday of Schuetzen black and semi-smokeless were the powders used,altho smokeless powders like we're familiar with today were coming on the scene.

  The thing we have to remember is that the Schuetzen shooter always wiped their barrels out when using black or Semi-Smokeless so only enuf lube was needed to prevent Leading.

  Hunting type moulds such as those made by Winchester  and Ideal all had wide deep lube grooves so that they could be shot dirty. They also usually have a long nose in relation to the driving bands. Something on the order of 40 - 50% nose. The nose was also considerably less than bore diam. so the front band could be used as a scraper. This makes for a very light bullet in relation to it's length.

  As we know it's length of the bullet and not wgt. is what determines the twist rate. Exceed that and you have problems. Take the .32/40 for instance. Most factory barrels were cut back then with a 1-16" twist. Once you got beyond 185 grs. with the standard Win. & Ideal moulds the length was getting excessive. Now if you leave the bullet that same length but shorten and fatten the nose, increase the meplat, increase the length of the bearing surface, decrease the width and depth of the lube grooves you can increase the wgt. of the bullet by maybe 15 or 20 grs. or more.

  As has been posted in other threads on here heavier bullets hold their velocities better and are less affected by the wind. In this case you can have your cake and eat it to.  Grin

  This would also apply to the 1-18" twist of the .38/55.

PETE
  
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ole7groove
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #3 - Nov 26th, 2005 at 8:37pm
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Pete,

I agree with you with respect to the more narrow and shallower depth of grease grooves for use with smokeless powders. Actual testing has shown that a 32 caliber bullet having only 2 narrow and shallow grease grooves (.040 wide x .016 deep round bottom) carries adequate lube when fired at 1550fs. Although we make moulds with 3, 4, 5 and 6 grooves, many shooters are using our 3 groove bullets with no reported leading problems. Comparing two identical bullets cut with the same cherrie one with 3 grooves, one with 5 grooves, the 3 groove bullet will have slightly higher retained velocity at the target than the 5 groove, this is due mostly to the increased weight of the 3 groove. Again, this applies to smokeless powders only.

Exhaustive testing has proven that a 16 inch twist 32 caliber barrel can stabilize bullets upto 1.165" long at 1475fs. As you know increasing the weight of a bullet will improve its ability to retain its downrange velocity. However I must point out that the larger metplat will most often offset any increase in weight due to increased aerodynamic drag. For instance, tests comparing a 191 grain 6r ogive spitzer vs a 210 grain 5r ogive spitzer (same length) have shown the 191 grain spitzer bullet has the better retained velocity and faster time of flight. The differences change rapidly beyond 100yds. I have tested and profiled most of the 32 caliber bullets we offer instrumentally in 25yrd increments to 200yds. In my opinion nose form factor is more important than weight alone.

7~
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #4 - Nov 26th, 2005 at 10:28pm
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ole7,
I for one, would be very interested in your ideas regarding nose configuration.  I assume that the spitzer bullet is very pointed?  Is that a white-powder bullet or would it be a good BP bullet also?
KEEP ON HAV'N FUN!
  
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PETE
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #5 - Nov 26th, 2005 at 11:01pm
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Barry,

  I agree with your assessment about the number of lube grooves actually required with smokeless powder. In fact I said about the same thing in another thread.

  What would you say to the same reduction of lube when shooting BP if you wiped between shots? I think the same as with smokeless but haven't done any side by side comparisons to say. Just a gut feeling. So am open to other opinions.

  I think you could go down to even less than 3 lube grooves if you wanted. As I've mentioned a Lyman 311334 with two lube grooves and being driven at pretty close to 1500 fps hasn't shown any Leading. I have taken it up to 1785 fps with no Leading, but there's no accuracy. Alloy is 50/50 WW/Pb. The problem(?) with this bullet is that it's about 2/3rds bore riding, so I'm not sure if this amount of lube would prevent Leading if the bearing surface was longer. Your thoughts?

  So far what I've found is that different calibers and bullets require different amounts of lube. My main .32/40 bullet shooting smokeless, which is a Barnett copy, does best with all grooves full, and a Win. 185 gr. bullet shoots best with one less groove of lube.. The Lyman 457125 wants two grooves less and the 600 gr. bullet I use in my .50/90 needs them all full. The latter two are being shot with BP and the bore wiped out for each shot. What's your thinking on all this?

  I can see the increased meplat increasing drag and wouldn't recommend it as soemething to get. I was just using it as an example to show how bullet wgt. can be increased without increasing the length.

  I'm glad you mentioned the actual max. length that a 1-16" twist can handle. Didn't know that!

  Nose form factor....... Can you go into this in a little more detail? It seems to go against common sense that a 191 gr. bullet would have better retention of velocity... which should equate to a higher BC..... than the 210 grainer with only a 1 degree difference in the radius. It would seem that just the difference in wgt. would be enuf to offset that small a radius change. How big a difference are we talking here?

  Something I read recently says that at Schuetzen and BP velocities BC isn't affected all that greatly by nose shape. If BC isn't affected then I would think downrange ballistics wouldn't be affected greatly either. Playing with different BC's and a computer program I've found that it takes around 50 points difference in BC to see any realistic changes in trajectories, and remaining velocities. Confusing to say the least since everybody puts such great emphasis on it. But.....You've done some actual work on this, so would be interested in your thoughts?

  This is getting interesting!  Grin

PETE
  
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ole7groove
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #6 - Nov 27th, 2005 at 1:43am
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Pete,

When comparing the 191grn 6r ogive vs the 210grn 5r spitzer bullets keep in mind the almost 20grn difference in weight between the two bullets. When testing I have selected standardized test MV's of 1400fs; 1450fs; 1500fs and 1550fs for each bullet test. Careful loading proceedures including uniform bullet weight, uniform powder charge, consistant primer performance and very precise screen distances maintained for ranges from 50yds to 200yds in 25yds increments. SD's less than 4 and ES's less than 10fs were able to be maintained. 3 -10 shot series were fired with each bullet at each test velocity and each 25 yard increment. It goes with out saying that slight initial tweeking of the powder charge was done to maintain MV's within +/- 5fs of test velocity. Muzzle screens are set at exactly 10 feet from barrel muzzle, down range chronograph screen distances are accurately measured to less than 1 inch at each 25yd increment. Since both muzzle screens and downrange screens are used the muzzle velocity and downrange velocity is captured for each shot, rather than rely on BC numbers I use the percentage of retained velocity at each 25yd incremential distance. 

The 191grn 6r spitzer and the 210grn 5r spitzer have almost the same data: 191grn MV = 1502fs ; 200yd velocity = 1204fs. The 210grn 5r MV = 1503fs; 200yd velocity = 1202fs. Considering the 20grn offset in weight the 191grn bullet is more efficient, if using standardized wind drift calculations involving TOF both bullets have about the same wind drift values. The lengths of both bullets is 1.150". Most notable is the percentage of retained velocity(factor) for the 191grn bullet is .803 x MV = .803 x 1502fs = 1204fs; the 210grn bullet is .801 x 1503fs = 1203fs. Increasing the length of the 210grn bullet to weigh 215 grains increases this factor to .816 or .816 x 1500fs MV = 1224 200yd velocity. 

Small changes to the nose form factor have a large difference to the TOF and wind deflection. If you look at the very narrow velocity ranges we are limited to of 1400fs to 1550fs, any improvement that can reduce velocity loss means less wind deflection, which is the largest detrement to accuracy at any range, and in the case of schuetzen shooting at 200yds this magnitude of wind deflection is approximately 4 times the wind deflection at 100yds. 

Another example is a comparision of the same 5r ogive bullet to a 8r ogive bullet both weighing 210grns and shot at 1500fs MV result in the 5r bullet having 200yd velocity of 1203fs, while the 8r bullet (.815 factor) has a 200yd velocity of 1224fs. Keep in mind these values are actual intrumential values and not obtained from any canned software programs.

Another factor to keep in mind, that by simply changing the lead alloy will change the downrange efficiency of the same bullet, a 1 in 20 alloy will lose velocity at a slightly faster rate than the same bullet cast in either a 1 in 25 or 1 in 30 alloy. A 200 grain bullet cast 1 in 20 will weight ~2 grains heavier when cast a 1 in 25 alloy.

Barry
« Last Edit: Nov 27th, 2005 at 8:27am by »  
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PETE
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #7 - Nov 27th, 2005 at 9:11am
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Barry,

  Excellent! Just what I was looking for from you. Someone who's done actual work. Computer programs are ok for a general overview but will never beat actual testing. In a lot of shooting cases close ain't good enuf.

  Looking at a chart of nose radius' (Coxe & Beugless) the difference between a 4r and 6r nose (closest my chart shows) is very small. In fact very hard to visually see the difference. This would lead you to believe that all else being equal..... as you point out your test setups were..... that the heavier bullet would be slightly better in all departments.

  Very interesting points you've made. Have you tried this with more radical differences in nose radius'? Say a 2r vs a 6r. If so, at what point will the results tip in favor of the heavier bullet?

  Then I get to wondering about a spitzer vs a flat nosed bullet. since a lot of people seem to think a nose pour bullet is better than a base pour, a true spitzer isn't possible. I wonder at what diameter the meplat would have to be before downrange results would be close enuf so that any differences wouldn't show up, just due to the "soup" of natural conditions acting on the bullet externally. Your thoughts?

  Changing Lead alloy affecting downrange efficiency...... Now this is a new one on me!

  Are you sure you don't mean a 1-20 bullet will weigh LESS than a 1-25 or 1-30? Tin being lighter than Lead any addition of Tin to an alloy should make it slightly lighter.

  In any event, do you have some velocity comparisons at the various ranges you test at to show this loss?

  Something that just popped into my head. I've read that some think a lube can be to slick. Have you done any  testing with different lubes to see if the various types cause differences in velocities?

PETE
  
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iowa
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #8 - Nov 27th, 2005 at 2:18pm
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Here is my next question(s):  Concerning lube, lube grooves, and bullet nose, in conjunction with BP and the bump up obduration factor.   With BP I have observed, and I know many others have observed and recovered bullets (here I'm talking the larger calibur 500 gr type bullets, Postel/Creedmoor type bullets) that show definate and clear signs of the rifling being engraved on the unlubed nose of the bullets. The bullets I've seen show the rifling about 2/3 of the way down the nose.  Is'nt this a significanly large area of unlubed bullet, other then what the smear in the bore provides from the previous shot?   Should'nt we be concerned with the amount and quality of the lube left in the bore to infact lube this portion of the bullet.  Are the shorter nose Scheutzen bullets superior, as in less nose surface area?  Should we be thinking about a dip lube for the nose, as in outside lubed like the .22LR bullets?   Maybe the larger grooves are needed to provide as much lay down smear on the bore as possible.   Again i'm really only thinking on this question as it pertains to BP, fowling on top of the lube smear  etc. etc.   What's your feelings?   Best regards steve witt
  
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PETE
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #9 - Nov 27th, 2005 at 4:09pm
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Steve,

  I think it was mentioned that after the first shot, even if you wipe out, there will be some lube left on the barrel. If you shoot dirty, after the first shot, there would be plebty of lube and soft fouling to "grease" the way.

  Altho the following is also true of my .45/70 and .50/90 BP loads I'll use as an example the 417 gr. .40/65 bullet I'm working with now. Since I shoot almost every day during the Summer I just leave the bore wet with my cleaner and at the range just run a dry patch thru to get rid of the excess. Or, if I'm shooting the gun for the first time that year, I clean it, and then follow the same procedure at the range.

  With the above bullet the first shot will always be in the center of the group. Using a blow tube the successive shots will be around it. Now with that first shot there is no lube in the bore, yet the barrel doesn't Lead up. If it was Leading up then groups would get worse real fast.

  Now this isn't a rare occurence and part of balancing a BP load for me is to try and find a load that will do this. With BP it seems to work most of the time. With smokeless it doesn't. I wish I knew the why of that!

  The long way around is that personally I wouldn't worry about an unlubed nose being a detriment to accurate shooting. A bore slightly damp from your cleaner seems to be enuf lube for at least one shot.

  Now here's an idea I've read that some do. If this unlubed bore bothers you then some will run a patch with their lube on it back and forth several times down the barrel followed by a reasonably tight, dry patch to get rid of the excess. Seems to be a favorite trick of some of the top ML'ing shooters. They call it seasoning the bore.

  Take it for what it's worth as I've never tried it. If you do let us know how it works out.

PETE


  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #10 - Nov 27th, 2005 at 4:18pm
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FWIW here's a thread about cast bullet design for very low drag.  (I thought it would be interesting to ask a ballistic engineer before going too far.)

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links) .

Jay Downs (Aladin) and I put together a design for a .30 caliber gas checked bullet for loooong range work.  There are many posts spread out on three or four forums. 

  

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ole7groove
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #11 - Nov 27th, 2005 at 5:13pm
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Pete,

Yes I have done comparative ballistic tests with 2r ogive upto and including 8r ogive spitzers and comparisions of flat nose also. In each case the larger ogive radii bullets with metplats of .030/.050 dia. of similar weights have shown to have the better target velocities. The following is a partial list of tested bullets and their efficiency factors for 100 and 200 yds. Just as the BC is the same for each particular bullet at a given range the efficiency factor also remains esentially the same for a given range within the 1350fs to 1550fs velocity range we normally use for schuetzen shooting. Therefore, if you multiple your chronograph MV x the EF(efficiency factor) of a bullet that has been characterized the resulting down range velocity will be close to 1% of the actual downrange velocity. 

190grn Flatnose .115 metplat = .892@100yds .789@200yds
200grn Flatnose .115 metplat = .895@100yds .799@200yds
190grn Pope      .145 metplat = .882@100yds .773@200yds
190grn 6r Sp     .020 metplat = .905@100yds .804@200yds
190grn 3r Sp     .060 metplat = .881@100yds .769@200yds
200grn 8r Sp     .045 metplat = .912@100yds .823@200yds
210grn 5r Sp     .040 metplat = .906@100yds .808@200yds
216grn RdNose  .060 nose R   = .902@100yds .809@200yds

This comparision shows the effect of both nose form and weight on bullet efficiency or retained velocity. When conducting bullet tests I repeat previous tests again on different days, slight differences occur mostly as a result of barometric pressure more than other atmospheric conditions like temperature (65F-85F) or humidity.

With respect to what would be the best of both worlds, weight and nose form for a 16inch twist barrel, my current choice would be the 6r spitzer with length increased to 1.165. Further testing is still needed next season on some new designs that are a result of this past years work. I do beleive that the nose length can be too long resulting in unexplained flyers, this seems to be true of the 200grn 8r spitzer. This years test series consistated of over 5000 shots of 15 different bullets designs, pressure tests were also conducted on each bullet design/weight.

I suppose I could have worded the difference in alloy weight better, I meant to say that a bullet mould that casts a 200grn bullet with a 1 in 20 alloy will cast a bullet about 2grns heavier when a 1 in 25 alloy is used. The 1 in 25 alloy will have better retained velocity than the 1 in 20 alloy due to the 2 grains of weight.

Years ago I experimented with many different bullet lubes and can't say as if any were too slick. With smokeless powder powder fouling sometimes occurs and is mistaken for leading. This fouling occurs in the throat and occassionally about 14" from the throat where the peak pressure point occurs. I don't beleive bullet lube is as important for smokeless shooting as for BP.

Barry
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #12 - Nov 27th, 2005 at 5:47pm
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Fellas, I think we have the modern day equivalent to Dr. Mann with Barry Darr.  This particular topic is one of the most interesting I've read.

coolhd
  
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PETE
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #13 - Nov 27th, 2005 at 8:51pm
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Barry,

Ok! Good post. But, I need to get this efficiency factor straight in my head. Remember... I skipped school the day they had math.  Grin In other words you're getting ahead of my understanding of your work and I sure do want to get a handle on it.

  Looking over your chart I'm trying to relate the efficiency to the numbers you give. I THINK the higher the number the more efficient. Right? If so, I get it, but if not I need some dumbing down about it.

  Atmospheric conditions....... Forrest Asmus and myself have been trying out the idea of using one "reading" of the conditions to see if we can't get a handle on retained velocity and it's effect on group size. Density Altitude is what we've been looking into. Rather than go over the whole thing we are trying to do, look up a past thread on this.

  Do you believe that Barometric pressure has more to with down range velocities than temp. and hunidity?

  We've all seen our rifles go "sour" in the middle of a match, for no reason we can relate to. I would think that barometric pressure would just be to slow acting to show these sudden changes. Using a Kestrel 4000 which will show you about any atmospheric condition you care to name, I'm beginning to believe temp. has the most effect on groups at least.

  Correct me if I'm wrong..... But isn't a lot of the barometric pressure you observe due in large part to temp. & humidity? If so then I would think that retained velocity would be more affected by these two factors. As the air warms in the morning the humidity will fall. As the humidity falls the air becomes more dense, and would retard a bullets flight more.

  I might be on the wrong track, but my observations so far this past Summer seem to show that about a 10 degree rise in temp. needs a corresponding decrease in powder charge in order to maintain velocity and accuracy. I'm talking smokeless here for those interested.... and not!

  So, I'd like to hear why you think Barometric Pressure is the more important factor to see if my thinking is correct or needs revision.

  I have read that the Creedmoor shooters kept a barometer, and humidicator in their loading tent. Altho not mentioned I would assume they also had a thermometer to.

  To slick bullet lubes..... I'm with you on this, but some seem to think if a lube is "to slick" the bullet can get ahead of the max. pressure wave when it's bumped by primer ignition. The thinking seems to be that you'll end up with the bullet traveling down the barrel with a Yo-Yo effect. Speeding up and slowing down as the pressure wave catches up and gives it a bump then slowing down as it gets ahead of the front. It's felt what's needed is the right lube consistency to act as a sort of drag so this doesn't happen. I'm not sure this would be applicable to BP as there is enuf drag induced by the fouling. More something that would affect smokeless loads.

  To prevent, or slow the primer bump it seems like a lot of BP shooters are going to the pistol primers.

  As an aside and FYI..... I've been looking down the muzzles of other competitors barrels.... unloaded of course  Grin ..... and see what you mean. Also have used those observations to tell when I'm getting close to the optimum load. I wasn't to sure about that at first, but see your point now. Amazing the variations you'll see.

PETE
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #14 - Nov 27th, 2005 at 9:11pm
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When I was in the artillary, we calculated trajectories for a given charge based on distance, elevation of the battery and of the target, weight of the round, wind direction and velocity, direction (rotation of the earth) and POWDER TEMPERATURE.  Nothing on barametric pressure.



  

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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #15 - Nov 28th, 2005 at 2:07am
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PETE

The efficiency factor (EF) is simply the percentage of retained MV at a given target range. For instance an EF of .804 is 80.4% of the MV (10ft from muzzle). An example an EF profile such as our #45 200grain flatnose bullet with a .115 metplat with MV of 1475fs is as follows: (Range EF times MV).
50yds  = .963 = 1420fs
75yds  = .932 = 1375fs
100yds = .895 = 1320fs
125yds = .873 = 1286fs
150yds = .845 = 1246fs
175yds = .822 = 1212fs
200yds = .799 = 1179fs
The EF's are constant for the 1350fs to 1550fs MV's that may be used for smokeless powder breech seated bullets. Each bullet has its own set of EF's for yardages in 25yd increments. By profiling each bullet design a more direct comparision can be made than by using the "standard Bullet" and "G1" drag function typically used. 

In addition to what I've mentioned before, extremely close velocity tolerance (+/- 5fs) were held for all test series, this also was an excellent way of detecting bullet instability or excessive yaw at downranges. With muzzle velocities held to +/- 5fs, a stable bullet will also yeild equally narrow downrange velocities, while bullets that are unstable will have erratic downrange velocities far in excess of the MV tolerance. While excessive yaw was not indicated with the 16" twist barrel, it was very apparent with a barrel with a 12" twist. Here the downrange velocities were within close tolerances, but retained velocity was about 5% less than when the same bullet was fired at the same velocity in the 16" twist barrel. This relationship of barrel twists will be explored next shooting season. SO MUCH TESTING-SO LITTLE TIME!!! Perhaps the oldtimers prefered 16" twist 32"s for 200 yard shooting for good reason? ??? Tongue

Atmospheric conditions such as humidity, barometric pressure, temperature and altitude have an effect on ballistics, since my ballistic test equipment is computer based accurate data entry of these parameters is required to obtain meaningful results. They do not seem to play as big a role at 200 yards as I once thought. At longer ranges such as those fired by the BP shooters they no doubt play a more tangable effect. Since my tests required certain specified test velocities, slight tweeking of the powder charge was needed due to temp. changes, sometimes as little as .08 grains. I have not crunched the atmospheric data from this past seasons testing yet, so i can not quantify the various variables. If you are testing at longer ranges than I am, I'm sure they may be more apparent to you.

Barry







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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #16 - Nov 28th, 2005 at 10:27am
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Pete:  I think many people that watch humidity don't have a good understanding of what it means and what it does to air pressure.  When you watch the local weatherman, he is reporting the amount of water in the air compared to what it can hold "relative" to a given temperature, thus RH.  As the day warms up, the amount of water vapor in the air dosn't change much unless a front passes over you but the RH goes down because warmer air can hold more water vapor than cold air.  If you want, I can give examples in numbers but it will take a while.  Many people that write BP lube reports say that when the morning started the temps were such and the RH was such but that the air dried out as the day warmed up.  Actually, roughly the same amount of water vapor was in the air but now it looks like there is less because the RH has gone down.  To me, that's why BP fouling is so much a temperature issue.  When the air temps go up, the barrel temp goes up so much faster.  I can huff and puff on the blow tube but I think the fouling dries out just as fast as I'm adding moisture.
Another fallicy that many people have is that warm moist air is more dense than cold dry air when just the opposite is true.  If you take equal volumes of water vapor and air, air will weigh more.  I think the reason people develop this belief is when the temps are high and the amount of water vapor is high, it retards evaporation on your skin and you feel hot and sticky thus they think the air is heavier.  A good example is a hurricane.  Very high temps and high moisture levels yet this is when the lowest barometric pressures are recorded.  Your findings on temperature are right along with mine even though I shoot BP.  As the day progresses, sight settings go up not because of air pressure or humidity, but because the temperature of our loads has gone up so velocity increases.  I learned that the hard way at my first Q.  I got a sight setting early in the morning on the buffalo, but by the time I shot at the buff for score, the temp had risen about 20 degrees.  I shot over it 3 times in a row without seeing any dust kick up because it was happening behind the target.  Finally, somebody clued me in but it was a valuable lesson.  As you probably know, once the Q starts there are no sighters.  Its not as much of a problem in LR shooting because when we move to the different yardages, we get sighters before we shoot for score.
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #17 - Nov 28th, 2005 at 3:49pm
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Barry,

  Thanks for the clarification on efficiency. I'm with you now.

  On excessive yaw and it's effect on downrange accuracy. I don't know if you have this problem with the .32/40 but every one in that caliber I've had always showed some tipping at 100 & 200 yds. I thought going to a lighter bullet SHOULD solve this problem, but it didn't. Your statement on this would suggest that lighter bullets than would be optimum for a given twist would cause more yaw. This seems to be the trouble when working up loads this past Fall for the .40/65. A nominal bullet (417 grs) for the twist worked up very easy, but going to a lighter bullet (313 grs) took quite a bit more work, and I was beginning to think I wouldn't make the accuracy level I wanted.

  Your comments on retained velocity loss with a quicker twist I'll certainly go along with. A bullet that yaws issubjecting more surface area to all forces that would retard it's flight and it's only reasonable that downrange velocity would be less than a bullet that was more stable. One of my pet peeves is people who say a little tipping is not detrimental to accuracy. As far as I'm concerned if you have to live with it, you do, but I want a stable bullet flight if at all possible and do all my load testing with that in mind.

  Yes.... A stable bullet will yield a stable downrange velocity spread, and that equates into better accuracy. Here's a question I think I know the answer to but would like your opinion to as I've about been told I don't know what I'm talking about. I have an original Win. High Wall in .38/55 with a 1-18" twist, and for bench shooting I use a 320 gr. Brooks bullet. At 100 & 200 yds. this bullet shoots fairly well, but shows a little tipping at 200. A gun I'm aware of in the same caliber, and cut with the same chambering reamer, shooting about the same wgt. bullet, but with a 1-15" twist, is lucky to shoot a 6" group at 200 yds. It is thought that a quicker twist is needed. I don't think so and with your statement on yaw and stability in twists I'm thinking a slower twist would be more useful. Your thoughts?

  Atmospheric conditions at short range. This is what I was trying to prove this past Summer. Forrest Asmus (FAsmus) uses Density Altitude  as a tool for setting sights when shooting out around the 800 to 100 yd. mark. I was curious if this would be a useful tool at Schuetzen ranges. This is gonna need a lot more work as the differences are small, if there at all. Wind, mirage, and personal sighting error are such that I'm not sure that any changes aren't being lost in other things. But, as I've mentioned to Forrest, it's pretty apparent that Temp. does have a noticeable affect on accuracy, and as far as Schuetzen shooting goes should be taken into account. If you ever do "crunch" the atmospheric conditions I hope you post them, as I think your testing eliminates the human error mine doesn't.

PETE
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #18 - Nov 28th, 2005 at 4:18pm
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Old-Win,

  I know about the humidity thing..... Now!  Grin It kind of bowled me over when FAsmus told me that humid air is less dense that dry air. Seemed to go against reasonable thinking. But, he's a pilot and they have to know these things so took his word for it until I did some checking.

  But my shooting this year shows there doesn't seem to be much correlation between humidity and accuracy. If the humidity stays constant doing a test and the Temp. changes it will show up on the chronograph and target. If the humidity changes and the Temp. stays the same there doesn't seem to be any difference I can tell at 100 yds. anyway. I think this would be about the same if carried out to further distances if Barry's last message above is any indication.

  Here's a question for you that I don't have straight in my mind yet. Can warm air hold more moisture than cold air? Or is it vice versa?

  I think the warm moist air vs cold dry air issue just comes from people thinking that if there is moisture in the air it just has to be denser since water weighs more than air.

  I thought the temp. affecting accuracy and sight settings would also apply to BP as well as smokeless, but hadn't done enuf testing to say for sure. I'm glad your testing agrees with that. Possibly it affects BP shooting more, or faster than smokeless due to differences in barrel Temp.'s created. But if you discounted that you still have air temp. and that would be the same for both.

  If I'm gonna do some Shilouette shooting next year I gotta get this blow tubing down in my mind a little bit better. You're saying that you can huff and puff but you think that the fouling dries out when you stop. I would think that BP fouling being so hygroscopic that if you subject it to moisture it would tend to hold onto it. Especially in our neck of the woods. I recall that by the time I walked out to the parking lot at the NCOWS Buffalo shoot and ran a patch thru the barrel the fouling came out as a soup rather than a solid. As the barrel was cooling down it apparently was sucking in moisture from the air. I didn't think it was particularly humid either. So, I'm kinda confused by your statment. Care to fill that out a bit more? In fact "Blow Tube 101" would be much appreciated.

PETE
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #19 - Nov 28th, 2005 at 6:48pm
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Hi Pete:  Yes, warm air does hold more moisture than cold air.  I'll try to make up an example here to show what happens to RH as temperature changes.  Keep in mind that these figures are not real because I don't have a chart but they should explain what's going on.   
Suppose we have a cubic meter of air at 80 degrees and lets say that the maximum amount of water vapor it can hold would be 40 grams at that temperature.  Now, if that volume of air had only 20 grams of water in it then it would have 20/40 (half of what it could hold) or 50% RH.  Now, let's suppose that at 60 degrees, the air is saturated with 30 grams of water.  If you take that same volume of air that we started with and drop its temp to 60 degrees, you now have 20/30 or 66% RH just by dropping the temp without changing the actual amount of water vapor in the air.   
Here's another thing that deals with the density of air.  When water changes to a gas, a water molecule actually weighs less than molecules of air made up of nitrogen and oxygen but take up the same space.   
As far as blow tubing goes, we've started shoots when the temps have been in the low 40's or even lower.  I only use about one breath to keep the fouling soft when we begin.  It doesn't take much for your breath to condense on a cold barrel.  As I continue to shoot, I keep grabbing the barrel to see how it's heating up and adjust to its temp.  I will be up to about 4 breaths by the time its quite warm.  When it gets so hot that I can only hold on to it for a second or two, I am up to six.  This is when things get interesting and I start losing the race.  Every shoot is different and I'm just getting enough experience to handle it.  At the Quigley,  I never clean my barrel all day because we only shoot 8 shots at a time and that is not enough to get the barrel hot.  The LR shoots are a different story because the barrel continues to get hot and you have to average a shot roughly every 1 1/2 to 2 minutes so it doesn't have a chance to cool between shots.  Even though BP residue is hydroscopic, when the barrel is that hot, I think the moisture is evaporting out of it.  My trouble has come up when the temps where in the upper 80's and RH in the 30% range.  Now, What about them lube grooves?? Grin Roll Eyes  Bob
  
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horsefly
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #20 - Nov 28th, 2005 at 7:51pm
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Good morning, Board;

O.K., Pete, you're down on your knees asking for it.  Blow tube 101 will take a whole career to learn.  Needless to say, I'm still a student.  However, I'll start.

I think there are really two things going on in the bore from blow tubing.  The first is to convert the fat and fouling into soap.  Once that reaction takes place, it is not going to reverse.

The second thing is keeping the fouling and soap moist.  The hotter the day and/or barrel, the more moisture you need to put into the barrel to convert the soap and moisten the fouling.  If you wait too long before firing the next shot, you may need to blow again to soften the soap and fouling.  Knowing how long that is can be a real trick.  I don't much worry about it during a relay because you're shooting more than a round per minute.  The rub comes when you shoot five and have to wait to reset the targets.  Then you may want to blow again just before shooting.  It depends on your gun and load.  Experiment.

How much to blow?  I kind of have a standard three long slow breaths.  If the day is hot or especially dry, I'll add a breath ... maybe two.  If the day is especially humid, I may only blow one or two.  When you start to clean after the relay, blow the same way you blew when you were on the line.  If the patch slides through easily, you're doing it right.  You'll soon develop a feel.

Quite a few of us have those little combo thermometer / hygrometer thingies from Buffalo Arms.  The actual relative humidity will fool you if you just try to guess.

Now, how to blow.  You see a lot of folks on the line blowing hard enough to make their face turn red, their eyes bug out and their ears wiggle.  That's the wrong idea.  A long gentle breath is better.  It's more effective in delivering moisture to the fouling and it's easier on the shooter.  Remember, the idea is to deliver moisture.  If the air passes slowly down the bore, you get a much better transfer than if the air just goes zipping past everything on the way out.

I know a number of shooters who take a water bottle to the line and suck on it every shot to keep hydrated and think it helps keep their breath moist.  It surely doesn't hurt anything, but I think it's unnecessary.  If you get so dry your breath is not moist, you have bigger problems than running a blow tube!  Drinking plenty of water is good for you, but doesn't help in this one instance, ....

Now, it will be interesting to see how many people have a different take.

Y'all be good.

horsefly
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #21 - Nov 28th, 2005 at 8:43pm
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Old-Win,

  Your post on relative humidity was most interesting. Learned a lot I didn't know. Thanks!

  A question along this line, but totally irrelevant since you can buy instruments that give you the RH, but was the old method of using a wet and dry bulb just a different way of getting the same thing? I can remember my Dad making one of these up and as I recall there was a formula to use to get the answer. Always had it in my head this was a way of determining RH.

  Will have to keep your idea of grabbing the barrel to use as an indicator of blow tubing you need to do. What little I've read on the subject only differentiated between humid and dry conditions. As you know around here during "normal" shooting weather the humidity is above 50%, except on rare occasions. With my experience at the NCOWS match I didn't think of barrel temp. as being a consideration.

  About them lube grooves. Grin Well, actually if you get down to it the last few messages are all about lube grooves and associated problems. You have to have enuf lube to make blow tubing practical. To little and no matter how much blowing you do it isnt gonna be enuf. To much and I personally feel that accuracy will suffer. As I pointed out, different bullets, different loads, and different guns require different amounts of lube..... and you might have to throw in different temp.'s and humidity. There probably is no one answer to the lube question and about all you can do is try to get something that will work for all conditions, knowing it's probably not gonna be best for any.

  You BP shooters might not be familiar with Claude Roderick, but the older Schuetzen shooters on here will be. He was considered one of the founders of modern Schuetzen shooting. I corresponded with him a year or so before he passed away. His thinking on lube was that you needed different tempers for different temp.'s, and sent me a whole page of variations that covered the range of temp.'s we shoot at. Of course this was for smokeless, but as we're finding out in these discussions it would also apply to BP. So, instead of only looking at various lubes and numbers of grooves, you can also look at various tempers in your lube. Feather is looking at harder lubes, but the question would be is if there is such a thing as a lube that will give best results in all temp.'s? Steve Garbe was questioned a while back on whether a variation on SPG would be of benefit over certain temp. ranges. His results showed that there was a slight difference between pan and machine lubing but basically the "old" formula worked the best.

PETE
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #22 - Nov 28th, 2005 at 8:56pm
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horsefly,

  Well, I've got my kneepads on so am ready for anything!  Grin

  Enjoyed your post and learned a few things. I like the idea of "soap" being formed when you blow tube, but not sure I get where this idea comes from. As far as I know none of the new or old soaps are/were made entirely of ingredients found in BP. The closest I can imagine would be the old Lye soap, and I'm not sure I would want to leave any residue like that in my barrel for the length of a match as I've read some seem to do. Which brings up a question.... Aren't you guys afraid of your bores starting to rust if the humidity is high enuf it'll turn the fouling to "soup" if let stand for a short while?

  On using the patch to see if you are blow tubing the right amount. I've been keeping track of this and find that over 50% humidity a dry patch will push easily thru a bore after three long, slow breaths. When the temp. gets down into the 40's and the humidity is around 30%, using three breaths doesn't seem to cut it as you pretty well have to pound on the rod to get the dry patch thru. Even wetting it doesn't improve things to much. would you think more breaths would be needed, or?

  Can I get off my knees now? They're starting to ache!  Grin

PETE
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #23 - Nov 29th, 2005 at 8:57am
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Good morning, Pete;

You said, "Can I get off my knees now? They're starting to ache!"  Well.....

A soap is produced in the reaction between a fat and an alkali.  Grandma's lye soap is one good example.  The harshness of the soap is mostly due to an excess of the lye because you really don't want extra fat in your soap.

So far as the soap hurting the bore in the period of one day, I have never heard of any problem.  After all, the fouling is already in the bore and the soap film is between the fouling and the metal.

You have noticed that the patch is hard to push through with three breaths in cold dry weather.  I think this is a good example of the idea that you need more blowing in cold dry weather - both on the line and before cleaning.

Y'all be good.

horsefly
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #24 - Nov 29th, 2005 at 1:19pm
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Horsefly,

  Yes... I'm aware that lye, and other old time chemicals were used in the making of soap. But I don't see the connection between soap and BP residue. All you've got is a little carbon, sulphur, and potassium(?) mixed together. Mostly carbon I would imagine. There are some soaps used in making some home made lubes, primarily as an agent to saponify it. Maybe some have fat in them, but I don't think the majority have. Might be wrong, so....

  What I was wanting to know is where do you get the lube and BP mixing together to form a "soap"? You're making a leap here I don't see, unless you know the formula's for all the commercial BP lubes out there and how they perform this "soap" making operation.

  BP fouling by itself is hygroscopic and would seem to me to not need any "soap" to soften it.

PETE
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #25 - Nov 29th, 2005 at 4:23pm
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Good morning, Pete;

Sorry I didn't make the connection complete.  Most of the fouling left by BP is fly ash - an alkaline (basic or hydroxide) product.  If you leave fouling on a cleaning patch for several hours, it turns white.  It is not carbon.

Lye for soap is leached with water from ashes from the fireplace or stove.

Interestingly enough, when the fouling (fly ash) is fresh it is easily wettable and easily cleaned.  If you wait until it turns white, it becomes much harder and sticks to the bore much more and is harder to clean.

Y'all be good.

horsefly
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #26 - Nov 29th, 2005 at 6:13pm
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Horsefly,

  Thanks for your explanation. I've noticed this white residue on dry patches, but guess I'm never gonna get the relation to "white" not being carbon, or at least in great part. All you have to do is look at the burned out charcoal in your BBQ t osee that it's white. Wish Bill Knight was on here! Since the carbon makes up a great proportion of the BP it should also be a large part of the residue.

  I can see the fouling as being alkaline, but not being a chemist I don't see some of the things your putting forth as having anything to do with "soap".

PETE
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #27 - Nov 29th, 2005 at 7:56pm
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Good morning, Pete;

Let me take another whack at it.  We agree, I think, that soap is the product of a reaction between an alkali and fat.  The fat is the layer of lube laid down on the bore.  The alkali is the BP residue laid down in the bore.  When you blow moisture down the bore, the alkali and fat are wetted and a chemical reaction takes place to form a crude soap.  Now you have a layer of soap between the remaining fouling and the bore.

You also said, "Since the carbon makes up a great proportion of the BP it should also be a large part of the residue."  You are right, it is.  But the burning reaction changes the carbon and the potassium nitrate into something else - the alkaline ash.

This chemical reaction stuff can be confusing if you are looking for the reactants to resemble what they were before the reaction.  For instance, if you react hydrochloric acid (strong acid) with sodium hydroxide (a strong base) you get salt and water.  You can drink it if you got the proportions right.  If you burn gasoline in the presence of oxygen, you get carbon dioxide and water.  Neither one of them resemble gasoline.

So, the point is, the carbon is there, but it is not going to act like you think elemental carbon should act.  It is in something new and different.

Y'all be good.

horsefly
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #28 - Nov 29th, 2005 at 8:58pm
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PETE, Old-Win, feather, horsefly

First of few comments about my take on lube grooves and lubes. Not being a BP shooter my comments may or may not apply to BP.

As a bullet mould maker, the shape of lube grooves has nothing to due with with the cherrie cutting tool life or the amount of time required to cut the cavity, whether the grooves are round bottom and shallow or deep square groove. When I first made moulds almost 40 years ago, it soon became quite evident that shallow round bottom grease groove bullets released bullets more easily than square deep groove bullets from the mould. Remember that the alloy shrinks slightly in the mould cavity causing the bullet to grip the cavity. Even now when we make deep grease groove flat bottom bullet cherries they will have about a 3-5 degree side angle to allow the bullets to drop from the mould readily.

Grease groove depth and width, typically bullets of my design will have a GG depth of 5% bullet diameter (.016 deep for 32 caliber and width of .050 wide) rounded bottom. Bullets having only 2 GG's of this size and driving bands .120 wide provided enough lube and preformed as well as bullets having 5 GG's.

I beleive its important that excess lube be spun out of the GG's as the bullet exits the muzzle. The blackened (leaded edge) seen on the target is powder/bullet residue that is too minute to be spun off. We have all noticed that the first shot from a clean barrel does not display this residue edge, but a much lighter colored grey colored leaded edge. I have not seen any advantage to deeper or wider grease grooves.

With smokeless powders the bullet traveling down the barrel is lubricated more by the lube residue from the previous shot than the lube being carried in the grease grooves. Since the bullet seals the bore, the amount of residue left in the bore is the same regardless of GG size. To my way of thinking the residue left in the bore, is forced between the bullet and the steel of the barrel, much like the hydraulic wedge created in a journal bearing. I agree with you Pete that the rortaional force of lube against the bore while in the barrel plays a part in lubrication.

Any good bullet lube will have a high enough shear strength to hold up during the extreme pressures at the interface of the bullet and barrel surfaces. The consistancy of the bore residue changes with changes to temperature and humidity, this can vary with with lube formulas. As a schuetzen shooter, I breech seat the next bullet after firing as soon as possible to prevent fouling in the throat from hardening and also seal off air flow that might occur through the bore.

Powder fouling in the throat that is allowed to build up and harden will cause erratic muzzle velocities. Most schuetzen shooters are familiar with the black caking that can build up on the case neck if not cleaned off regularly. If allowed to build up this caking on the case is most difficult to clean off, this same condition occurs in the throat and at times in the bore at a point where the pressure peak of the powder occurs.This fouling build up is choking bore and works like a sizing die and will change the diameter of the bullet beyond the area of the fouling.

Thats my take on it  Roll Eyes
Barry

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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #29 - Nov 29th, 2005 at 10:22pm
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PETE,

We are getting off subject on this thread I think.

Here are some of my thoughts regarding stability and yaw, right now they are just speculation on my part based on my obsevations doing two years of testing breechseated bullets.

Previously, I mentioned that when comparing the same bullets shot from a 16" twist barrel to them same fired from a 12" the downrange (200yd) EF was about 5% less with 12" twist. While this is true, groups shot with particular barrel shoots groups regularly under minute of angle (200yds). The 16" twist barrel also shoots sub-minute of angle groups with the appropriate velocity. I suspect that there are several conditions the occur during the bullets flight.
1. Random instability - a condition that causing extreme downrange velocity spreads.
2. Random yaw - the effect of this condition are the same as for #1
3. Repeating instability - this condition results in similar velocity spreads downrange as muzzle velocity spreads. This may explain why slight tipping is seen even on very small groups.
4. Repeating yaw - again this condition results are similar to #3
5. Stabilized and tangent yaw - perfection. The bullet spins about its axis and the nose of the bullet is tangent to the trajectory arc.
Next shooting season I plan to explore these conditions in more detail, using 16", 14" and 12" twist barrels.

With respect to your 38-55 x 18" twist barrel, when I was making barrels I also found that a twist faster than 16" in 38 caliber did not perform well at 100 or 200 yards. With the 18" twist, as I recall, a 300 grain bullet was performed best accuracy-wise. I beleive the faster the twist the more any inbalances in the bullet are amplified, which may be the result of your friends 15" twist. I made up a 40caliber barrel chambered for .405 with a 18" twist and have found that is capable of excellent accuracy at 200yds with a 375 grain bullet 1.350 long. A 415grain bullet showed slight tipping at 200yds, although accuracy was good, the recoil was not pleasant, recoil was more than 13 ft lbs. at 1525fs. Too much for this old fart, 50 shots a day is about all I want to tolerate.

Going back to this past seasons testing data, I checked the velocity difference between 60F and 82F of same bullet fired at the same MV = 12fs. This is the average of 30 shots each at 1500fs. The effect of humidity of downrange ballistics in nil., I beleive its effect we see has more to do with the internal ballistics. The altitude of my test range is 1640 feet above sea level, I have observed atltimeter readings from 1470 to 1750 during the course of testing, this has a small effect on velocity and follows barometric pressure.

Barry
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #30 - Nov 29th, 2005 at 10:37pm
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horsefly,

  Ok.... I see where you're coming from, altho I think you're assuming that all BP lubes have fat in them, since there is no way you can create an organic material for an inorganic one. That's an assumption I can't make not knowing the composition of those lubes.

Barry,

  I certainly agree with you that a round bottomed lube groove with tapered sides is the way to go in casting, altho I never thought of it as being a help with slinging the lube off.

  I can't speak for other guys but I'll agree with you about the black ring around the bullet hole at the target and observe that all the time. But, what my observations have been is actual pieces of lube of the target face outside the the hole. This ring around the hole is not so noticeable with BP loads where you wipe out between shots, but is easily seen when shooting dirty.

  I suppose we could get into quite a discussion as to how the lube is applied to the bore side....... hydraulic or centrifical. I tend toward the latter as I don't recall ever digging out bullets from the backstop where the base was cupped, as some suggest for the hydraulic theory.

  The shear or compressibility of lube is something that we count on when bump swaging cast bullets. Without the lube in the grooves the bullet would collapse unevenly.

  When you say the consistency of the bore residue changes with Temp. & Humidity is this because the powder residue is mixed with the lube? I wouldn't think that smokeless powder residue has any component that would be affected by them. But then I don't know that for sure. Comments?

Your method of breech seating the bullet right after the shot is something I'll have to look into. At this point I always take care of the case first with both smokeless or BP. I can see your point about the fouling hardening and causing problems with smokeless, and might be something to consider when wiping out for BP to.

  What's your take on the other thread on hard vs soft lube?

PETE
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #31 - Nov 29th, 2005 at 11:10pm
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Barry,

  Off topic? Nah! Well, maybe a little,  Grin but that's what usually happens as one thing leads to another. For me anyway, topics are dynamic issues and one point usually brings up a coupla more in relation to it, which then leads further astray as the topic expands.

  On points 1 & 2..... I wish I had two chronographs so I could have seen this point of yours. When working up the load for the .40 cal. 313 gr. bullet I figured the 1-16" twist would create an overstabilized bullet but what was confusing were the low SD/ES's at the muzzle, but not corresponding accuracy at 100 yds. With your comments here it could possibly be what was happening.

  Points 3 & 4..... Does sound like what I've observed with the .32/40 especially.

  Your point number 5..... I have heard arguments that this is not necessarily so. That the gyroscopic effect as the bullet spins going down range tends to keep the nose of the bullet pointed to the initial line of flight from the muzzle. Which I thought might be the cause of my .38 cal. bullets showing a slight amount of tipping at 200 yds.

  Interesting that you think a 1-16" twist for the 320 gr. .38 cal. bullet would be better than a 1-15" or 1-14". In a discussion while shooting .22's indoors this morning I was thinking the same. Well, I guess we'll find out, as if my info is correct a 1-14" barrel is on the way if not here already.

  Your observations on humidity affecting down range performance mirrors what I was thinking. My range is 950 ft. above sea level. I wonder why that is? You would think that the density of the air would play a major role in down range performance just due to more or less drag on the bullet. Possibly it does at further distances than we shoot at in Schuetzen. But why would you think humidity would have an affect on internal ballistics? Internal air column resistance on ignition?

PETE
  
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #32 - Nov 30th, 2005 at 8:55am
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Good morning, Pete;

Yes, I'm assuming that the lube has a fat in it.  Good BP lubes all seem to have some fat in them.  There are many kinds of fats including crisco, other vegetable shortenings, all (I think) of the cooking oils and a bunch of other things.

Y'all be good.

horsefly
  
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feather
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #33 - Nov 30th, 2005 at 10:07am
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Barry,

I defer to your experience of forty years making moulds when you say that shallow grooves with rounded bottoms release bullets best.  The commercial manufacturing of moulds started many years before you did.  I suspect the manufacturers came to the same conclusion that you did when they started producing them.  I've worked as a tool designer; I've run machinery and I've also worked as a technical writer.  With that background, I also know that many product "improvements" are the result of cost cutting measures or promotional hype.  I only wanted to point out that sometimes a "real improvement" is the outcome of forces attempting to do something completely different.

Your comments about the barrel residue forming the lube marks in rifles when using smokeless powder is very logical.  Cast bullets are subjected to much higher velocities and pressures when smokeless is used and particles could easily embed in the bullet.  I'm not certain it applies when the pressures and speeds of black powder are involved.  I haven't seen it with black powder.  Perhaps the paper I'm using for targets doesn't attract it.  I usually use Kraft paper which has a slick surface when compared to regular target paper.

I must say that I am finding this entire thread very interesting and informative.

feather
  
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ole7groove
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #34 - Nov 30th, 2005 at 3:28pm
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PETE,

Sometimes I omit going in the great detail as my posts tend to get abit wordy.
 
With respect to humidity/temperature effects on the internal ballistics. These condition variables have more to due with the lube/power residue, most importantly humidity. Many shooters besides myself always seat the bullet into the rifling before charging the case. Testing across your chronograph should reveal this. Try both seating the bullet first and then after preparing your case. You should see more consistant velocities when the bullet is seated first. When the bullet is seated later you should see a wider MV spread and an increase in velocity. Of course the variance in velocity is dependant on conditions on any particular day. On cooler days, if the barrel is fired at random time intervals the consistancy of the lube/powder residue changes, this also causes velocity variations. For instance, run a patch through your barrel shortly after firing and note the resistance felt on the cleaning rod, then do the same after the barrel has been allowed to set for 5 minutes. Since my experience is with smokeless powders, I can't speak on the subject of BP effect.

Another condition I have obsevered. When dropping charges into the case using a conventional powder measure drop tube with an inverted cone I noticed powder clinging to the inside of the case neck, pouring the powder out, then tapping the case, about 3 grains of powder came out. On days with low humidity, less than about 50%, no powder is left clinging to the inside of the case. Before realizing this was occurring it caused me no end of grief trying to maintain tight MV tolerances. After making a new drop tube that fits inside the case neck and extends almost to the bottom of the case, erratic velocities disappeared on humid days. I now use the inside drop tube for all testing. As Claude Roderick would always say "tremendous triflings" can sometimes have a large effect. I should also add that I use a fine grain ball powders for testing, although this condition also occurs with powders like 4227.

Another reason to load the case after seating the bullet into the rifling is it resduces the chances of double charging a large case like the 32-40, in particular shooters like myself who do not use a wad over powder.

Temperature effects the burn rate of some powders more than others and possibly effects primer to small extent also. 

Barry
  
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ole7groove
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #35 - Nov 30th, 2005 at 3:48pm
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Feather,

I am also an mechanical engineer and have many of the same career experiences as you. I totally agree with your manufacturing comments, having been a manufacturing engineer in charge of offshore operations and later directing engr. of advanced technologies for a computer hard drive company. I have the great admiration for an engineer that can actually make what he designs, I beleive there are way too few of us.

I also appreciate you comments on BP as I am a "babe in the woods" when it comes to this subject. I wish I had the range distances and the time to get involved in research in this area of expertice. Even if I had the time to explore BP, it would be almost impossible to find 1000yds here without a mountain getting in the way Cheesy

Barry
  
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PETE
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Re: Lubes and Lube Grooves
Reply #36 - Dec 1st, 2005 at 12:58pm
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Barry,

  Gotcha on the wordy posts and leaving out some details. Seems I got my butt chewed last week because of this.  Grin You can't tell everything, but, in my case if I don't get something, or feel there's more to it, I'll ask questions. Never did learn the trick of reading minds!  Grin

  Testing whether a bullet seated before case prep and after will be an interesting test to do. As I mentioned, I've only done the case prep first. I can see the logic of it especially if the humidity is relatively low. Might be interesting to see if there's a point where it doesn't make any difference which method you use.

  Your idea, and conclusions, of running the patch thru the bore at different time intervals with smokeless is something I haven't tried. So.... something to try also. With BP a lot depends on the humidity level. Above 50% you can push a dry patch thru most any time and it'll go thru easy. When the humidity gets down around 30% it works best if you wait a while. If you try right away you have to pound the patch thru. Of course if you blow tube it goes easy.

  Like your drop tube conversion idea. I've noticed these grains of powder clinging to the case neck. I mostly use 4227. Mostly with me is that I see this right at the mouth of the case. Possibly because I haven't really looked down inside to see if powder clings there. I don't use a wad down near the powder either so this idea will go on my "to do" list for sure.

  Boy! Does temp. ever affect powder burn rate. I had this driven home when I had a real good load for shooting Sporting Clays. When real cold weather came that load would fizzle, hang fire, or not go off at all. Had to add 2 grs. of powder to get it to the point where it could sustain a burn when ignited. Maybe a hotter primer would have had the same effect.

PETE
  
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