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DonH
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LH RB
Oct 21st, 2005 at 6:52am
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Esteemed colleagues;
     Has anyone seen a lefthand rolling block ( the "ear" on the left side)? How tough a job would such a conversion be?

TIA
  
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Asst
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Re: LH RB
Reply #1 - Oct 21st, 2005 at 9:12am
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What would be very cool, is if Mr HST would make a Gove lever on the left side. Might be interesting.

  
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Green_Frog
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Re: LH RB
Reply #2 - Oct 21st, 2005 at 9:59am
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I'm with my friend Asst on this one all the way.  If you are doing all that alteration anyway, why not eliminate the single mule ear, which looks unbalanced on either side and replace it with a 'way cool side lever on the side of your choice?  How about it, Mr. HST; does the "buck stop" with you on this one?

Froggie
  
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MI-shooter
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Re: LH RB
Reply #3 - Oct 21st, 2005 at 12:35pm
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I suspect the rotary extractor MAY present a more difficult challenge than the sliding inline extractor for a lefty conversion of a RB's. Buschenmacher may be up for this discussion as well.
  
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hst
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Re: LH RB
Reply #4 - Oct 21st, 2005 at 1:50pm
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Don:

Is said Roller destined to be a target rifle?

Glenn
  
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DonH
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Re: LH RB
Reply #5 - Oct 21st, 2005 at 2:56pm
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The roller in question is Lone Star which has been my silhouette rifle. It is unlikely it will ever be used for anything  other than match shooting.
  
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hst
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Re: LH RB
Reply #6 - Oct 21st, 2005 at 3:14pm
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Don:

I shot a side lever roller for a couple of years and rather liked the rifle. However it did come to mind once or twice that maybe the lever should be on the left side. That would have allowed me to manipulate the action without breaking position.

In your situation, assuming you are right handed, you might find yourself better served with a lever on the right. Then you could manipulate the action with your more dexterous hand.

Glenn
  
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buchsenmacher
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Re: LH RB
Reply #7 - Oct 21st, 2005 at 6:56pm
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I have on hand a lever casting for a roller that would mount on the right like the side lever, but it extends down and wraps around the trigger guard ending in a tab positioned like the lever on a Ruger number one. The casting is marked Fruend lever for rolling block. With this arrangment you would have an abidextrious rifle. The lever is 5 inches long from the pivot so it would have a heck of a lot of leverage to seat sticky shells and extract them. 

If you realy want to do some converting there's the Gove underlever that replaces the triggerguard alltogether and works lilke a lever action rifle, except you have to cock it before opening the action. 

With all that being said, moving the normal tab on the breech block from the right side to the left side would only require that one be cut off and a new one welded on, some shaping, checkering and refinishing and it's done.

Steve Durren
  

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DonH
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Re: LH RB
Reply #8 - Oct 23rd, 2005 at 6:21am
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Wow;
    You guys have given me more to think about than I bargained for.

Glenn;
    While I hadn't thought of a sidelever initially, the idea has some appeal especially since it could also aid in cartridge seating/ extraction. The idea of keeping things on the right of the receiver to be manipulated with the right hand makes a lot of sense.

Steve;
    I'm trying to envision what that Freund lever would look like in place. I understand how it would work but would it lie tight to the reciever or would it be ungainly in appearance. The Gove underlever has a lot of appeal to me but might not be feasible at this time.  Just what does this conversion entail (how does the lever rotate the block)?

    Maybe I don't even need to alter the action, just manipulate the block and hammer with the right hand per Glenn's thinking. That certainly would be the way to go economically but you've got me thinking...
  
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buchsenmacher
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Re: LH RB
Reply #9 - Oct 24th, 2005 at 8:24am
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DonH,

The Freund lever attaches to the breech block pivot pin like your typical side lever but instead of coming back it comes straight down towards to bottom of the reciever. Flat against the receiver. Then it turns under the receiver to the front of the guard. Then it snakes it's way along the surface of the guard hugging it until it's about three quarters of the way back when it angles away from the guard to form a finger tab. The whole thing is fairly trim and sexy.

The Gove underlever is a major modification to the action and would probably be best done before finishing the receiver. The bow on the trigger guard is removed and a slot is cut in the forward part of what we should now call the floorplate. The lever/triggerguard is inserted through this slot and pivots near the floorplate. A link is attached to the lever and connects to the breech block. The drawing I have shows this done to a straight grip action and the lever casting I have would only work with a straight grip. The rear end of the lever does have a curl to it somewhat like a Hawken guard. As I mentioned, you still have to cock the hammer before opening the action. I have read somewhere that when Gove did the conversion, the lever would cock the hammer and then open the breech block. I'm not sure how he would have accomplished that but I'm sure there are a lot of extra parts in there!

Steve Durren
  

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