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Normal Topic Remington rolling block steel and heat treatment (Read 3424 times)
dddalaska
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Remington rolling block steel and heat treatment
Sep 23rd, 2005 at 3:25am
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I have been searching to see what process Rem. used to heat treat its rolling block action bodies in the 1860's through 1890's and haven't come up with anything. Anyone know what was standard? I would guess case hardening, but, with all actions I have seen being blued, I don't know. Appreciate any help.

I just bought a rolling block stamped 1868 on barrel under forearm. I will be re-barreling or re-lining the barrel to an un-decided caliber to hunt here in Alaska. 

Thanks,

Old aspiring machinist
  
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ssdave
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Re: Remington rolling block steel and heat treatme
Reply #1 - Sep 23rd, 2005 at 9:52am
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The early rolling blocks were case hardened.  There is a hardened layer on the surface that you go through pretty quickly when you mill them down.

The later models that were chambered in 7mm were heat treated instead of just pack hardened.

You can tell the difference easily by the size and shape of the receiver ring.  I can get you precise measurements when I'm at home, but as I recall, the shank on the smokeless powder heat treated ones is about 1.05 inches, and the earlier blackpowder is about .95.  The receiver ring is much thicker on the smokeless also.  The blackpowder actions have a kind of "step" on each side of the receiver ring where the ring gets smaller over the top of the action.

The only appropriate cartridges for any of these actions, including the 7mm smokeless action, is a blackpowder era cartridge, loaded to blackpowder pressures.  You can push this just a bit with the smokeless action, but it is in no way suitable for modern cartridges, unless very small (.25-20, .22 hornet, and possibly the .222).  Although it was designed for smokeless, the pressures were low and there were still problems with the action at that.  I've seen some in .32-40 and .30-30, and even a few in .308 and .30-06.  I personally would have no part of shooting any of these cartridges in a RB.

My recommendation if it is to be a hunting rifle would be .45-70, .45-90, .50-70 or .50 alaskan.  I have all of these cartridges in a RB, and they're excellent short range hunting cartridges.

I can help you identify the action you have later when I have more time to type, and I can help you get a good 3 pound trigger pull to replace the military 18 pound.

Best of luck,
dave
  
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dddalaska
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Re: Remington rolling block steel and heat treatme
Reply #2 - Oct 18th, 2005 at 2:31pm
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Dave,

Thank you for the response. I would greatly appreciate the information you have on trigger improvements,  receiver differences, etc. I have my email listed (open) on ASSRA, or I can send SASE or whatever, including money, via snail mail from Alaska. Also, I have just spent several hours searching for RB parts on the www and would be happy to share the Info. that I found with others, although all of you folks may already know where to find hammer and breech pins, stocks (original and reproduction-finished and semi-inletted, extractors, etc.), perhaps not, and I will share. The reproduction finished stocks are finished with buttplate (brass) and are undersized enough to be inletted for  most any RB. Appear to be walnut, though straight-grained as a fencepost; nothing fancy. I also make action pins and extractors from tool steel.

Best,

DDDAlaska
  
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