Am looking for some help in a starting smokeless load for this BPCR rifle that I have in 45-70.  I know the BP fans are giving me the 1 finger hi sign, but I just do not have the time in my schedule to do all the extra case prep and cleaning that goes along with BP shooting.  I have had good luck with 5744 powder in 45-70 for my Marlin 95 CB shooting a 405g.  Wanting to shoot a heavier bullet in this rifle for long range stuff.  Could use a suggestion on commercially made bullets in the 500g+ size.  Have had reasonable luck with Bonus Bullets, their 520g Grand Master with BP loads.  Have not used any with smokeless loads.  The rifle is really fun to shoot and I don't want to hang it up just because I don't have the time for the black powder loading...
Would appreciate all the feedback...

Mike

I have shot black in it and it really shoots great...  I know my schedule and I just don't have the time for the extra work to consistantly shoot the BP.  Thanks for the feedback
Mike

13-15 grains of Unique, a cotton or TP or (heavens forbid)Dacron over-powder wad, Remington 2 1/2 Lg. Pistol primers, and any bullet from 457191 to 457125 seated out as far as possible, at least .459", .460" is better, unsized, Darr lube. I've never seen it fail in 44 years. If it won't shoot, nothing will. Do I sound opinionated? Good!
joe b.

I have two Browning BPCR's - a standard BPCR in 40/65 and a "Creedmoor" in 45/90. Strength is not an issue, with black OR smokeless. I have never shot anything but black powder in either rifle. I am not prejudiced, I just bought these rifles to shoot black and that's what I do. Both, I have to say, are superior rifles.

If I wanted to shoot smokeless in the 45/70, I would just simply get Ken Water's books, "Pet Loads" published by Wolfe Publications and read the series he has on the 45/70 including ratings on the strength of various rifles. The Browning would fall into the "strong" action category. 

I have loaded my Marlin 1895 almost entirely with smokeless and find it is an accurate rifle but have only shot it at 100 yards. I have no experience shooting smokeless with five hundred grain bullets for long range use. 

The old NRA Reloading Handbook may have some data for you.
I am sure that it can be done. I have my doubts that you will be able to buy really match quality cast bullets from a commercial source. No one will spend the time necessary to produce match grade bullets like you will yourself - at least that has been my experience. However, YMMV.

I have a Marlin model 95 lever action ("new" rifle) and I will tell you, you can safely load the rifle with smokeless that'll make your retinas bulge. The Browning is even stronger. So, your choice of loads can and should be predicated on accuracy and comfort.

I recommend RL-7 for a powerful load. It burns well and due to small grain size measures extremely well. You won't need wads and the powder seems to work very well with black powder calibers. Loading data is available from a variety of sources that show loads with RL-7. The Hornady (4th Edition) lists loads for several different action types (trapdoor, 1895 Marlin, and the Ruger #1). You can use data for the #1 in your Browning if you need VERY powerful loads (with RL-7 you can drive a 350 grain jacketed bullet at 2100 fps). It that doesn't rattle your eyeballs, nothing will .

Frankly, if you are just shooting for fun, use the Trapdoor level loads. Even with trapdoor level loads you can drive a 300 grain bullet from 1300 fps clear up to 1900 fps.

If you are serious about developing smokeless MATCH loads with cast bullets it CAN be done. You will find that with cast bullets, accuracy will be your limitation (you can only drive a cast bullet so fast before losing accuracy). If you are allowed to use gas checks, you can load to greater velocities. However, at the higher velocities and 500 grain and heavier bullets, recoil will definitely rear it's ugly head.

Good luck!

Dale53

mikeb;
Cleaning BP cases is actually rather easy. Just carry a milk jug (I actually prefer the much sturdier "All" detergent jugs) half full of water with a couple of squirts of "Dawn" dish water detergent. As soon as possible after firing the cases (just after the match while still at the range) decap the cases and drop them in the jug. Leave them in there for the drive home. When you get home, drain the water off and fill the jug a couple of times and shake/rinse them. I then pour the jug full of cases into a plastic kitchen colender (large bowl shaped strainer) to drain off the excess water. I have a large vibratory case cleaner. I just throw the wet cases in the vibratory cleaner and run it for 20-30 minutes. They come out dry and the cases are sparkling. Depending on what kind of media you use (I use "corned" ground cobs with Dillon's polishing compound) you may have to check the primer pockets. Of course, I use a loading press that runs a decaping pin thru the flash hole on the first stage - I don't have to worry about a possible blocked flash hole.

This is as easy as it can be (and I assure you it is thorough).

Dale53