Does anyone have a email or contact info for a source of re-decappers of the old Pope style? Looking for something I can use that looks correct for the period.
Thanks,
Vall

I have a Meacham and I like it just fine, but I use the ones made by Jerry Simmons.  The only contacts I have had with him are at Etna Green.  Perhaps someone on the wire will have contact information for Jake.

Corky

Thanks for the info guys! I look forward to getting Mr. Simmons contact info also. 
Vall

Thanks Schuetzen! I'll check BA for that item.
Vall

Thanks Froggie! I have the ASSRA journals, so I'll check there.
Schuetzen,
Buffalo Arms doesn't carry the Meacham in either their online or paper catalog. They have the Pope style, which is $99.

Jerry Simons
715 Middlebury St.
Goshen, IN 46528

He is in the Yahoo white pages.

His re and de can be used for many cal.  Mine I use for 32-40, 25-20 SS and can be used for many more. It takes different heads is all. 

Thanks for all the great info guys! I'll have to think about which one I want, and then get the setups for various calibers I reload for. 
I don't shoot competitively, but I like to reload at the range, so I can work up loads for each rifle. My present tool uses RCBS dies and shellholders in a large hand press, and it's a bit awkward to re-decap shells.

Some of the guys I shoot BPC Silhouettes with use the DAT, and it seems to work OK.  For a de-primer, I prefer the ones made by Jim Kluskens (Distant Thunder).  Nice piece of equipment, and won't break the bank...I think they're around 40 bucks.  I reprime with a RCBS tool.

Greg

I picked up one of the Simmons redecappers from Charlie Dell at Asheville.  He trys to keep a couple on hand for people like me needing to upgrade my "toy box".  He had at least one more and said he trys to keep different heads and rods around to meet most anyone's needs.  The 2 he had at Asheville were set up for 32-40 and would work fine for any similar case for recapping.  Decapping side will handle about anything down to a hair above .30 cal.

Wally

DW
The Arawinko Re&Des are a copy of the Peterson. The Darr was a copy of the very rare Bremmer tool. I am personaly lusting after the Bremmer tool.

40 Rod

DWS,
That's for sure! No other type of shooting involves so many neat tools in use at the bench! Even if one doesn't shoot in competition, it's nice to be able to use these tools for casual shooting, and load workup.
Vall

Hey Ken,
Some of us collect, some shoot, some shoot what they collect, and some have to keep the rest of us equipped with beautiful iron to shoot!
What we all have in common is a love of these fine guns, whether they're old originals, or newer!

He died last year, Jerry simons is still around, i believe however.

Mike,

     AFAIK, Charlie never made re and decappers...I know that for the 10+ years I went to his place he always used and stocked for resale the Jake (Jerry) Simmons units.  I don't have his address handy, but if it doesn't show up in the next day or so on this board I'll try to dig it out.  There are a couple of others that have come on the market including the excellent Arawinko one that I reported on in SSR Journal about a year ago, but the Simmons unit is the most well known and widely used, I believe.

     Charlie DID, however design and build an improved version of the lube pump made famous by the likes of Harry Pope, and there was an inquiry about that just the other day in another thread on this board.  Both the pump and the re- and de- appeared in Charlie's book, so I guess some folks are getting into their Winter reading to prepare for the Spring matches, huh?  If anybody reading this missed the other thread, it was noted there that Willis (singleshot) Gregory has had the torch passed to him by Charlie to continue the making of the lube pumps.

HTH,
Froggie

the area code for Jake is no longer 219 it is now 574.
U all have a good day now - the rimfire

Mike, the original Pope RE-Decappers were Nickle plated. I would just leave the Simmons the way you got it. A little natural patina from use will look good. Regards, FITZ

To Plate or Color Case or Rust blue. I live in the Socalist state of confused folks (California) and trying to find a real plater out here may be hard. I know the good platers would first plate with copper and then nickel, it lasted longer that way. Our state is so well monitored by the DO-GOODERS that the other day when I went to purchase lead ingots at a local hardware store the idiot aked me what they were, honest to God. They carried no lead as it was deemed hazardous. So I have now found a relaible lead supplier in of all places San Fransisco with reasonable prices. And for a small fee they will make certain alloys up for you such as 25-1 mix of lead and tin. Or you can buy the lead and tin and do your own.
Mike W

Hi Rod, how long does the Nitre bluing last?
Mike W